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Air Intake - From Where?

ieee_raider

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City, State
Paris, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
2013 Ford Explorer Sport
Alright so call me an idiot if the answer is right in front of me... but...

The stock air intake on the Sport... I assume it's the same as other models, but I can't find where the air comes in? I mean, I see the snout form the air box towards the grill, and it looks like air flows through a chamber from around where the hood latch is, but the grill is completely sealed off in this area.
So where is the air coming from???

Please answer my dumb question... lol
 



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practically nowhere lol. I had the upper half of my grille off to install my black ford emblem, and that channel opens to the back of the grille where it's blocked off lol. There's some small gaps that air can get in, but it's certainly not channeled to any sort of duct work or channeling to fresh ambient air. I plan on taking the grille off one of these days and popping some holes in that upper grille area block off to get direct ambient air into the airbox.
 






I took the air box out just to look myself. Fished around with a wire and looked with a flashlight and mirror. As Harley says, there is some access, but not much direct free flow of air coming in toward the the air box snorkel from the grill area. I think it can be improved upon. When I have time I'm going to remove the grill and drill some fair size hole saw type openings into that air channel chamber that is next to the hood release. This would be pretty much like the "Zoodad" mod done to the Trucks.....best regards PLum
 






Don't forget that the engineers designed the engine to run the way it is. Any alteration could adversely affect the operation and the way the engine is designed to run. In the event that you have any issues with the engine or related parts that are traced back to the modification, the warranty will not cover it. Just saying.

Peter
 






Is the snout protected from open ambient air from the grill so when driving in the rain moisture cannot get to the filter?
 






Is the snout protected from open ambient air from the grill so when driving in the rain moisture cannot get to the filter?

It appears to be protected from everything! haha
I initially thought it allowed air to come in at the center, by the latch area, and then routed it over (which would let water hit in the middle but not directly into airbox).
But like I said, it appears there's no air from anywhere.
I'd like to find a temporary mod that could be removed if necessary, but I'm just not seeing it yet.
 






Don't forget that the engineers designed the engine to run the way it is. Any alteration could adversely affect the operation and the way the engine is designed to run. In the event that you have any issues with the engine or related parts that are traced back to the modification, the warranty will not cover it. Just saying.

Peter

Also don't forget, that engineers designed it to try and accomidate for every single person out there and every possible use, with a single configuration. That's like ice cream makers only making 1 flavor and trying to appeal to everyone. The airbox is as sealed as it can be from the engine bay air, but also sealed from any direct entry from the grille to protect from anyone doing serious offroading and plowing into huge puddles and water forging, and as protected as can be to minimize the amount of dirt and debris caught in the filter to protect against those who neglect to perform regular service, and as muffled as possible to protect against those who want a perfectly silent and muted engine. So that doesn't make the performance oriented as happy, but it doesn't totally aggrivate the offroad oriented, lazy oriented, or numb-driving oriented.

Improving the ambient airflow to the airbox will only improve the responsiveness and low end power by getting cooler ambient air to that choked off airbox. It may sound a little louder, it may get the filter a little dirtier quicker, and it may not allow you to forge through 3' deep water, but if you're a person who keeps up on regular maintenance, doesn't mind actually hearing your car has an engine under the hood, and aren't going to be serious offroading in this glorified sedan, then it's a perfectly reasonable mod to do.

I plan on getting the Roush rebadge of the Airaid intake which uses the factory airbox scoop, and either adding a duct to channel fresh air into that blocked off little chamber, or disassembling the grille, and creating an opening in that backer panel that blocks off that chamber from fresh direct ambient air.

My 2000 HD F-150 truck was only engineered to make 220 hp at the wheels, and it's since been "reengineered" to put down 789 hp at the wheels....just because the original engineers made it one way, doesn't mean it's the only way lol.


Is the snout protected from open ambient air from the grill so when driving in the rain moisture cannot get to the filter?

The water would still have to travel decently far to make it into the airbox. And even at that, it's going to run in and sit in the bottom of the airbox, where the inlet to the engine is in the top of the airbox. I'd just pop a couple tiny holes in the bottom so if any water got in from washing it or driving in a serious rain it could drain out, but there's not really a concern unless you're plowing through some serious water. And if you run an aftermarket filter that has an oil gauze media, that naturally repels water, but you could also run an outerwears pre-filter which is also hydrophobic if you had any concerns.
 






Also don't forget, that engineers designed it to try and accomidate for every single person out there and every possible use, with a single configuration. That's like ice cream makers only making 1 flavor and trying to appeal to everyone. The airbox is as sealed as it can be from the engine bay air, but also sealed from any direct entry from the grille to protect from anyone doing serious offroading and plowing into huge puddles and water forging, and as protected as can be to minimize the amount of dirt and debris caught in the filter to protect against those who neglect to perform regular service, and as muffled as possible to protect against those who want a perfectly silent and muted engine. So that doesn't make the performance oriented as happy, but it doesn't totally aggrivate the offroad oriented, lazy oriented, or numb-driving oriented.

Improving the ambient airflow to the airbox will only improve the responsiveness and low end power by getting cooler ambient air to that choked off airbox. It may sound a little louder, it may get the filter a little dirtier quicker, and it may not allow you to forge through 3' deep water, but if you're a person who keeps up on regular maintenance, doesn't mind actually hearing your car has an engine under the hood, and aren't going to be serious offroading in this glorified sedan, then it's a perfectly reasonable mod to do.

I plan on getting the Roush rebadge of the Airaid intake which uses the factory airbox scoop, and either adding a duct to channel fresh air into that blocked off little chamber, or disassembling the grille, and creating an opening in that backer panel that blocks off that chamber from fresh direct ambient air.

My 2000 HD F-150 truck was only engineered to make 220 hp at the wheels, and it's since been "reengineered" to put down 789 hp at the wheels....just because the original engineers made it one way, doesn't mean it's the only way lol.




The water would still have to travel decently far to make it into the airbox. And even at that, it's going to run in and sit in the bottom of the airbox, where the inlet to the engine is in the top of the airbox. I'd just pop a couple tiny holes in the bottom so if any water got in from washing it or driving in a serious rain it could drain out, but there's not really a concern unless you're plowing through some serious water. And if you run an aftermarket filter that has an oil gauze media, that naturally repels water, but you could also run an outerwears pre-filter which is also hydrophobic if you had any concerns.
I guess I was a bit more concerned what this would do to the warranty. I completely understand that there are some members who like to 'tinker' with their vehicles. I was that way once when I was younger but not to the degree that some owners modify their rides. I didn't have the knowledge although the engines were much simpler back in the days. Biggest change I ever had done was replacing the 194 cu. in. in my '64 Chevelle with a 283 engine and I didn't do it myself. I'd be very interested to hear how you make out and what it does to the performance.
I wonder if 77rednecktruck will have any delayed problems with his Ex since he all but submerged it to the point that water was spilling over the hood. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Perhaps, if you proceed with this, you may want to consider posting a thread in the 2011 + Modified forum.:thumbsup:

Peter
 






Hmm, I wonder who fits into the "numb-driving" category ? I think I know. I like your thoughts and post Harley !!!! best regards Plum
 






Hmm, I wonder who fits into the "numb-driving" category ? I think I know. I like your thoughts and post Harley !!!! best regards Plum
That would probably be the vast majority of owners. :):thumbsup:

Peter
 






Hmm, I wonder who fits into the "numb-driving" category ? I think I know. I like your thoughts and post Harley !!!! best regards Plum

lol the majority of vehicle owners of the public, and the minority of vehicle owners of the forums. haha

Although even in the modified section here, I was surprised at how many are enthuiastic enough to be frequently posting on an enthuiasts forum, but that enthusiasm was all about keeping it stock and not modifying anything lol. Never thought I'd read a thread warning against plastidip....not because it's cheap stuff, but because it may void the warranty on the part you applied it to.....seriously?!?!? lol
 






Air induction modifications or "ram air"

View media item 610
So I was looking at the air intake tract on my new '17 Sport. The intake for the airbox is blocked off in a dead space area behind the grille and is also blocked off from the lower grille openings with a horizontal plastic filler panel. The air intake opening is behind the center grille slot in the picture. Has anyone opened up their grille and/or opened up the horizontal filler panel? I couldn't get a pic of the horizontal panel as it's down low behind the grille. Would opening these up be beneficial to allow more cool air to be forced up into the air intake opening?
 






Air induction modifications or "ram air"

View media item 610
So I was looking at the air intake tract on my new '17 Sport. The intake for the airbox is blocked off in a dead space area behind the grille and is also blocked off from the lower grille openings with a horizontal plastic filler panel. The air intake opening is behind the center grille slot in the picture. Has anyone opened up their grille and/or opened up the horizontal filler panel? I couldn't get a pic of the horizontal panel as it's down low behind the grille. Would opening these up be beneficial to allow more cool air to be forced up into the air intake opening?

Well, I went in on my 2013 Ex Sport and on the lattice work in front of the chamber (grill), drilled holes in the center row of those that look like depressions/funnels. Went from the center of the grill and drilled right through the center of four of them on each side of center. Carefully increased bit sizes until 25/64 ths of an inch. My hope was to pressurize the chamber and make it easier for the turbos to pull air through the filter. Seems to have more power and needs just a touch less throttle especially at speeds over 20 mph. If I was worried about heavy rain, I would probably have drilled some holes on just the passenger side. If I have any water issues, a strip of duct tape stuck to the inside can cover some or all of the holes. I only drill where I can reach inside the chamber and stick tape over the hole. Testing continues as I have larger drill bits. So far, I think it's working. If you decide to do this, you'll have to take a look at your grill and decide where to drill. Some members have actually done the Zoodad thing and cut through right in front of the air filter intake. Read all the comments before picking up the drill or saw--then decide.
 






Well, I went in on my 2013 Ex Sport and on the lattice work in front of the chamber (grill), drilled holes in the center row of those that look like depressions/funnels. Went from the center of the grill and drilled right through the center of four of them on each side of center. Carefully increased bit sizes until 25/64 ths of an inch. My hope was to pressurize the chamber and make it easier for the turbos to pull air through the filter. Seems to have more power and needs just a touch less throttle especially at speeds over 20 mph. If I was worried about heavy rain, I would probably have drilled some holes on just the passenger side. If I have any water issues, a strip of duct tape stuck to the inside can cover some or all of the holes. I only drill where I can reach inside the chamber and stick tape over the hole. Testing continues as I have larger drill bits. So far, I think it's working. If you decide to do this, you'll have to take a look at your grill and decide where to drill. Some members have actually done the Zoodad thing and cut through right in front of the air filter intake. Read all the comments before picking up the drill or saw--then decide.
Second entry. I went to the 4th hole from center on the right side and hogged it out to .795" wide and .680" high. Then I skipped where a 5th hole would be and drilled out where the 6th hole would be to 25/64 ths of an inch a couple of days ago. Got caught in a brief rainstorm of about three minutes and traffic slowed to 35 mph. Then, it cleared and we were back up to 60 mph for about five minutes when I pulled into a gas station and raised the hood to check for water. There were about 4 or 5 large drops behind each hole at the base at the base of that chamber that had run together so they were accumulating. Squeezed my fingers over to and into the intake snout and found no water there. However, if I were going to have to drive in heavy rain, I would probably block off the four holes on the driver's side just to be safe. And in really heavy rain for a long time, I might block all of them except the one in the 6th widget area on the passenger side. Light rain today, some very small drops on the shelf area (not enough to worry about). I have found that a snippet of electrical tape stuck over a hole from the outside works nicely. Just seems to run better and the faster you go the better it seems to run and respond. I like the mods. I don't know if there is a drain hole in the bottom of the filter housing or not. If I ever get in there, I'll take a look. A drain hole would cause a little lose of pressure but might prevent hydrostatic lock if too much water got in. Anything else I do--I'll keep you posted.
 






Second entry. I went to the 4th hole from center on the right side and hogged it out to .795" wide and .680" high. Then I skipped where a 5th hole would be and drilled out where the 6th hole would be to 25/64 ths of an inch a couple of days ago. Got caught in a brief rainstorm of about three minutes and traffic slowed to 35 mph. Then, it cleared and we were back up to 60 mph for about five minutes when I pulled into a gas station and raised the hood to check for water. There were about 4 or 5 large drops behind each hole at the base at the base of that chamber that had run together so they were accumulating. Squeezed my fingers over to and into the intake snout and found no water there. However, if I were going to have to drive in heavy rain, I would probably block off the four holes on the driver's side just to be safe. And in really heavy rain for a long time, I might block all of them except the one in the 6th widget area on the passenger side. Light rain today, some very small drops on the shelf area (not enough to worry about). I have found that a snippet of electrical tape stuck over a hole from the outside works nicely. Just seems to run better and the faster you go the better it seems to run and respond. I like the mods. I don't know if there is a drain hole in the bottom of the filter housing or not. If I ever get in there, I'll take a look. A drain hole would cause a little lose of pressure but might prevent hydrostatic lock if too much water got in. Anything else I do--I'll keep you posted.
Third entry. Sometime in October, I went back to the 6th hole and enlarged it to 1/2". Then I bored 1/2" holes in the 7th, 8th, and 9th positions--and a 25/64 ths hole in the 10th position. Checked for any openings (hole) going from the backside of the air chamber to the engine bay and taped over a few since we're trying to get a pressure chamber here. Also, taped over the area where the hood latch comes down and hits the catch and slit the tape to allow the catch to pass through and also cut a little slit so I could reach in with my fingers and find the hood latch. (I tried to seal as many escape routes as possible). Can't feel any improvement over my previous mods but it has to be a touch better with a little more air and perhaps a touch more pressure at any speed over 20. For me, the bottom line is that it's certainly a better performing vehicle now because of instead of having to suck air in through cracks and crevices around the edges of the air chamber, air is now being forced, and I repeat, forced into the air chamber. The engine just doesn't seem to work as hard as it did before I did all this.
So, it looks like I'm done here for now. I guess folks with later models and grill changes will have to check their grill configurations (especially in front of the air chamber) to determine what they can do to get air into the chamber as it might not be as easy to just bore holes and make it work as it was for me.
 






Third entry. Sometime in October, I went back to the 6th hole and enlarged it to 1/2". Then I bored 1/2" holes in the 7th, 8th, and 9th positions--and a 25/64 ths hole in the 10th position. Checked for any openings (hole) going from the backside of the air chamber to the engine bay and taped over a few since we're trying to get a pressure chamber here. Also, taped over the area where the hood latch comes down and hits the catch and slit the tape to allow the catch to pass through and also cut a little slit so I could reach in with my fingers and find the hood latch. (I tried to seal as many escape routes as possible). Can't feel any improvement over my previous mods but it has to be a touch better with a little more air and perhaps a touch more pressure at any speed over 20. For me, the bottom line is that it's certainly a better performing vehicle now because of instead of having to suck air in through cracks and crevices around the edges of the air chamber, air is now being forced, and I repeat, forced into the air chamber. The engine just doesn't seem to work as hard as it did before I did all this.
So, it looks like I'm done here for now. I guess folks with later models and grill changes will have to check their grill configurations (especially in front of the air chamber) to determine what they can do to get air into the chamber as it might not be as easy to just bore holes and make it work as it was for me.
Fourth entry. Back in July or so, I took a package of funnels I had picked up for a couple of bucks and shoved one that was 2" across into the 4th hole left of center. Then a 3 1/2" one into the 4th hole right of center. And, a 2 3/4" one into the 6th hole right of center. I then marked the shafts when I had them in as far as I could force them. Then, I cut the tips off about 3/8ths of an inch past the marks. Then, I shoved them back into their respective holes. The funnels have a tab with a hole in it that I had pointed towards the ground. I cut 3 pieces of picture frame wire and tied one end of each in and through and around the open grill lattice work just below the funnel. Ran the other end through the hole in the funnel tab and twisted it tight. And that's the way they have stayed ever since. I was going to glue the funnels in but this method keeps me from having to do that. The angles just worked out. Anyway, all of this was to force a little more air in under a little more pressure and see what happened. Seems to have helped the power just a touch over from before the funnels. When it rains, I put a twist of paper towel in the 4th funnels to keep the water out. When it snows, they plug up with snow. As said before, it certainly seems to run much better that stock now that it's being force fed enough air to run well. And, the colder the air, the better it seems to run. I'm still thinking of doing the Zoodad cut on the grill somewhere down the line (something I can flip open and close easily on hinges). I'll let you know. That's about it for now.
 






5th Entry. The insanity continues! Have been thinking of how to get cool air under the hood into the engine compartment . Rejected the hood scoop idea because of rain and water on the engine. Figured I would "pipe" cold air into the area. Used a plastic, flexible, sump pump pipe (1 1/4 inch). Cut a piece about 7 feet long to use.. Standing in front of the grill, looking at the engine. On the passenger side, there is an opening down by the frame. Ran the pipe down by the right corner of the engine to the identified area. Crawled under the truck and was able to grasp the pipe and pull a foot or so of it down through the opening. Found that I could wrestle the end over to and through the lower air slot on the lower air dam entrance. Cut the end so it was at an angle and square with front of the truck. Up top, had run the piping down from the right as noted--so, I zip tied it to one of the wires in that area (loosely). Routed the piping up to and across the top of the radiator cover, under the hood latch. Drilled a hole in a protrusion a couple of inches past the hood latch for a zip tie to hold the end of the piping. From the center of the engine compartment by the top of the radiator cover, cut the piping half way through 3 1/2 inches on either side of center. Then cut down the center of the piping top and bottom to create a 7 inch slot with the opening facing the engine. Put a zip tie through the previously drilled protrusion and cut off the excess piping just past that. Done! Went for a test spin in 40 degree weather, Pulled in and shut off and popped the hood. Hood was cool as was the intake manifold. Did another test on a 65 degree day. Hood was much warmer as was the intake manifold--but much cooler than before the piping was installed. Engine felt crisper that before. The cooler, the better. On the test spins, took a piece of the piping along and stuck it out the window to check the air flow which was a lot in my opinion. This is for a 2013 Explorer Sport but might work on other years that have that opening in the same place. Until next time. Honky.
 






6th Entry. Back about four years ago, I had a rat/mice problem under the hood. They set up a nice domicile in the intake manifold area and of course, under the engine cover. Used the hood liner as material to build their new home. Ate the wiring harness which took the dealer weeks to get replaced. So, I started mixing peanut butter with crushed rat poison to put on a tray under the back of the vehicle every night. Plus, I put trays of it under the hood on the engine. They (whatever they are) ate part or all of it, sometimes. Other times--nothing or part. Found a big dead rat when I first started this the next day. "bout half the size of a Georgia "wharf rat" nothing like those in NY that are monsters. Anyway, I stripped the hood liner out and took off the engine cover and peeled any insulation out of the intake manifold area. Since doing that, things have been OK. As such, I figured that removing all this insulation would help drop the under the hood temperature and help cool the engine. So, when I did the stuff in entry 5, I figured it would be a benefit by supplying the necessary cool air. And, so far, it seems to be working. Someday when I feel that I could do a tank of gas of sane driving to check the current mileage, I'll do it. Right now, it's just mash it to the floor and who cares what the gas pump says? Honky.
 






Was this in your garage? Just wondering because several animals love peanut butter too. I had mouse problems a few years ago in the garage and after I got rid of them I bought some small plug-in sonic devices and haven't had an issue since.
 



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[QUOTEYeppeYterk9, post: 3825483, member: 163604"]
Was this in your garage? Just wondering because several animals love peanut butter too. I had mouse problems a few years ago in the garage and after I got rid of them I bought some small plug-in sonic devices and haven't had an issue since.
[/QUOTE]
Yep
 






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