Few pictures from my front end job: lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and stabilizer links.

[Explorer_PL]

Last weekend I decided to deal with my loose, clunky steering. I haven't done any front end fixes in about 100k miles, and with the plowing on top of it did not help the matters. Bought Moog lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and the stabilizer links. Total was about $ 140 and about 4 hrs of work. I thought it would be less, but the locking nut on the passenger side tie rod was rusted and it took 2 torches, wire wheel and pipe wrench to get it going.
Overall, not difficult, just lots of bolts. I used some cheap ball joint kit from ebay, did the job.

Driver side with old parts removed (old ball joints still there):

I did not want to do the alignment after, so I just marked the distances with blue tape (8 inches) and made sure the new tie rod is in same position:

The "press"

Driver side all done:

Passenger side in progress.

 

[tripplec]

Neat press tool. I might have to look for one. Air tools I have already with several guns. I have bought various auto parts on eBay and never a problem with quality but you have to read the info, warranty offered as well as parts details supplied. I also have an inner tie rod removal tool I used on my wifes Compass as that vehicles suspension falls apart right off the lot which has to be the cheapest compilation in a new vehicle. Very little is original in it now. Engine and body and few smaller items. No more Chrysler anything for us.

 

[Drewmcg]

You plow with an Explorer? Is this just for your own/friends/neighbor driveways, or commercially?

 

[Explorer_PL]

Not commercially, just my driveway and neighbors and whoever asks from friends
I do not think Explorer is made for commercial plowing LOL
Been doing that since 2007.

 

[Drewmcg]

Cool video! I don't think I can justify $3k+ to plow my drive a few times per year even over the next several years, but I'm intrigued. As it is, I do appreciate the 4wd on my '10 explorer for getting in and out of my drive until I get motivated to spend the couple of hours snowblowing . . . .

Have you noticed any adverse affects on the 'sploder from your plowing exploits?

 

[Explorer_PL]

I got the plow used in 2007 for a little over $1000 IIRC. One could argue that I can do my driveway with a snowblower but with heavy snow and few of them in a day or night it's hard to keep up. Also, it takes 2 hours at least of heavy labor to blow the snow, and you are soaked wet and tired. With the plow it takes 10-15 minutes in a warm car. Of course it's not an F250 so you need to do it few times if it snows continuously but still beats the snowblower and shovel.
I use it gently, don't go at it like a madman. I usually try to plow downhill.
Transmission is till holding up very well, since I drive a lot I started dropping the pan and filter once a year every 22k miles in my case for the past few year.
I replaced upper control arms few times but I can't be sure if the ball joints and bushing go bad from plowing or just my long driving every day.

 

[Drewmcg]

Thanks; you got a great deal on that blade, seems like!

 

[willied]

So how big was the difference? I'm at 161k, and I think mine needs some refreshing in the front end as it feels slightly clunky.

 

[Venustoise42]

What was the initial symptom that led you to do all the replacing? My 06 made a pop noise the other night on my way home from work, and pops a little occasionally over bumps and turning left

 

[Explorer_PL]

I have been hearing a slight knock: metal on metal kind of for the past few years and can't locate it. It's especially transparent in very cold temperatures, so I am suspecting a bushing somewhere.

For the upper control arms, the steering was shaky and when I took the wheels off, I could move the steering knuckle, UCA and see the ball joint moving. Also the side mounting bushing had a play. It improved driving and steering, but the tiny knock is still there. I am thinking the lower control arms, or differentials bushings .....
I switch between my son's 07 with just 135k and it rides really nice compared to mine with over 297k,
I already replaced all 4 struts with Monroe's at 275k with minimal improvement. The old ones original OEMs surprisingly were still in good shape.

 

[Trainmaster]

I'm sure I'm telling you the obvious, but recheck things like the shock bolts, stabilizer bar link bolts and stuff like that which has been replaced but may not be up to the task. Don't rule out the new parts. This can be a real bummer to figure out. Patience and some time spent with a couple of jacks and a long bar should help figure it out.