Need a replacement column-mounted shifter boot for a 1996 XLT | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Need a replacement column-mounted shifter boot for a 1996 XLT

DP96XLT

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 29, 2019
Messages
124
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49
City, State
New Berlin, WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 Explorer XLT 4WD
Hey guys, been searching and can't find a replacement boot for a 1996 Explorer XLT column-mounted shifter.

I have found Ranger replacements, F150, F250, etc, but no Explorers are listed.

Anyone have a crossreference? Or did the Explorers have a unique column shroud and shifter boot?

Thanks,

Dennis
 



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Thanks for the reply, actually, I was talking about the column-mounted shifter near the steering wheel, not the whole column to the firewall.

I need the small one that is on the base of the shifter rod itself. Sorry if I didn't describe it well enough.
 






Sorry...I didn't read the description of the linked boot for sale carefully enough. I see it's actually a firewall boot; although they did make reference to the same basic Ford part number (different production year code F87A) in their description. Regardless, the Ford part number I provided IS stamped on the shift lever boot on my column. My limited searching isn't providing any luck in finding a vendor for it, though. Best bet might still be finding one at a JY.
 






Don't see any sources for a new OE shift lever boot. JY, but they're typically torn. They're also a bit of a pain to change.
 






I just can't believe there is no definitive part cross reference for this kind of stuff...

In the f-body world they have everything cross referenced.

Even finding manuals for wiring diagrams and all is a pain. I ended up spending $10 buying the manuals as a PDF for the 1996 vehicles (as a sidenote, if anyone needs the PDF for 1996 Explorer/Mountaineer/Ranger, let me know and I will send you a link to grab it) as I downloaded the DVD that was posted on here and it is a total PITA to try to deal with (and I even have really old laptops with legacy OSes and still couldn't get the thing to load after burning a DVD for those machines to try).
 






Once I get my Explorer back from getting the windows tinted I will just rip apart the column shroud and figure out what part I need. As far as I can tell there is a different boot for Rangers and F150s. But I can only find two different boots for just about any 1993-2004 Ford with a column mounted shifter so I am pretty sure it has to be one of those two.

When I figure it out I will post the proper part numbers so that others looking will have an answer. I just can't believe with this many people and enthusiasts for these vehicles that this stuff isn't known and/or posted already.
 






I can’t imagine it’d be different than the Ranger.
 






I replaced the torn shifter boot in my '01 Sport Trac with one out of an Explorer. As I recall the boot is attached to the top of the column cover with screws, but you have to punch out the pin from the shifter, disconnect the wires from the OD on/off button and withdraw the wires from the shifter. Then reassemble in reverse order. If I'd have know how involved just replacing the boot was I probably wouldn't have bothered. It's not like it really does anything other than keep dist out of the column.
 






Actually, in looking at the spare column I have sitting here off the '98 Explorer XLT, the OD on/off wire is a separate wire pigtail that runs alongside the larger wiring bundle that feeds the M/F switch...and, can be disconnected at the base of the column (no need to mess with the on/off button). It's also pretty tightly secured with 4-5 clips along it's length. Also, no screws securing the boot...just two retainer clips that secure it to the column. Drive out the shift lever pin and it's an easy replacement. Of course, access is likely more difficult with the column in place vs off the vehicle. BTW...I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to remove the column assembly by removing the pinch bolt from the intermediate shaft inside the cabin area after disconnecting the wire harness plugs and shift cable.
 






If you are messing with the shifter stalk, I’d wrap the OD switch wire in shrink wrap. They wear out, and then ground to the shifter when changing gears. You’ll blow a fuse and lose your reverse lights (among a few minor other things)
 






I just popped the OD switch off the end of the shifter stalk and the 2 wires just plug into the back of the switch. I think doing this would be easier than following/disconnecting the wires down on the column. Both wires were black so the OD switch is just a momentary switch and it doesn't matter which way they go into the switch. I never noticed, or had, any wire chaffing.
 






I just popped the OD switch off the end of the shifter stalk and the 2 wires just plug into the back of the switch. I think doing this would be easier than following/disconnecting the wires down on the column. Both wires were black so the OD switch is just a momentary switch and it doesn't matter which way they go into the switch. I never noticed, or had, any wire chaffing.
It’s fairly common, it’s happened to several members. I chased this short for a grip before finding it. I ended up having to wire my reverse lights to a switch to get an inspection sticker.

it might be accelerated by certain wheel tilt positions.
 






There is a rubber insert in the socket that the shifter goes replace it shifter will feel like new

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Well, I got it back from tint and checked out the steering column shroud. Looks like you need to remove the lower instrument panel cover as well as the instrument cluster shroud (bezel?) and then you can unbolt the steering column shroud and remove it.

Basically, way too much work to redo it until I get a part ordered. At least while it is still winter weather here in SE Wisconsin I will probably pass until we get into spring with temps in the upper 50s/60s... I may pull it in the garage and do it next week when I put on the stainless brush guard, but no promises...

Then again, it might be a good enough excuse to do the window up/down modules I was considering. Anyone know if the wiring for the window switches are easily accessible? Might be a good enough excuse to pull the instrument cluster and upgrade the bulbs to LEDs everywhere... I gotta search for some threads in regards to that... Mine being a '96 I have that blueish/turquoise color and wouldn't mind switching everything to green to match the door switches and cruise control lighting.
 






Column cover: You don't need to remove the instrument cover. I recall just 3 screws from the lower column cover and you should be able to remove the lower piece completely and upper cover enough to remove the shifter lever. You'll probably need to put the shift lever into neutral (or all the way down) while working the tilt to just the right position, so block your wheels or use the parking brake (assuming it still works).

Windows: All the windows and locks receive power and ground through the driver's master window switch. Sometimes the switch goes bad, but more often than not you find you have broken wires in the driver's door wiring loom. The older these trucks get (and a '96 is getting pretty old) the more electrical problems they tend to have. To be able to examine the wires, it's easiest to first remove the driver's door (which is pretty easy to do). The black plastic barrel/cannon connector attached to the door has a zip-tie holding the rubber boot to the connector. Cut the zip-tie to peel the boot back (you can replace the wire-tie with a new one when when done) a 10mm bolt holds the 2 halves together, remove it and it will unplug itself. The door is held onto body by four 13mm bolts. You will not be messing around with the door alignment bolts, as they are located on the cab side. If the wires are good in the door jam, sometimes you will find broken wires in the area of the driver's kick panel. There is also a splice that corrodes under the driver's side rear seat, near the sill plate, though I don't remember it than effects the rear window or rear lock function.

To get to the master window switch (or to get inside any of the doors) you must remove the interior door panels. Pop off the interior door handle cover, remove 2 screws above the door handle, pop the plastic push-in xmas-tree clips from the bottom and sides of the panel, lift the panel from the front to unhook a molded plastic hook from the front doors then lift the entire panel upwards to release it from the door. The entire master window switch will slide out from the back of the armrest area. You'll need to unplug the power mirror switch. Under the trim panel you should find a plastic weather shield stuck to the door. Do not destroy the plastic while removing it, as you will need to reinstall it when done. This will now give you complete access to the interior of the door and everything inside of it. You will need a wiring diagram to ID the many wires inside the door.
 






Was at the JY this morning and took the opportunity to help by checking the shift lever boot on a '96 Explorer CENTAURUS (don't see those everyday...lol! Same as the one that is on the steering column assembly that I removed from the '98 XLT...and same as one I checked on a '01 Heritage Edition Explorer XLT. I brought it home if you can't find one and are interested. Perfect condition (our sheet metal rusts up here big time...but, interior trims and such are normally well preserved). Anyway, I can always throw it on e-Bay. Ford pt # stamped in red ink is F57A-3D677-CBJADT.

Oh, and if you're able to remove the end of the O/D stalk to disconnect the wires at the button as Koda describes, this is an easy swap. I just wasn't sure how to remove that without buggering it up. Remove the upper/lower clam shell column shrouds and that's all you need to do to access the boot and shift lever pin.
 






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