Edelbrocks vs KYB Monomax's

[Meth713]

anyone tried out both shocks?

I usually ride around on bumpy roads, but nothing big, no bogging... ride comfort is important to me....

and with such a large investment i cant decide which... anyone?

 

[twooverpar]

I recommend that you add Gabriel VST's to your list. They are a good shock and are much less expensive than the other two you have listed. Do a search for them as most everyone who has tried them has liked them and especially liked the price (~$120 installed for all 4!).

 

[aldive]

I run the ISA Edelbrock shocks on my lowered 99 and am happy with their performance.

 

[InspectoRob]

With only light off road use, I agree with 2overpar. The posting 7 down from this on the list"shocks for 96EB" has some info on the Gabriels.

It is rare to get side by side comparisons, most people buy one type and love or hate them.
I did about 1 months (casual) research on shocks and it gets confusing, but this is what I found:

I am a little partial to KYB shocks because they make OE motorcycle shocks, and they are a big company that is quite specialized, unlike a petroleum company like Tenneco that ALSO makes shocks (Gabriel, Rancho and many "private" brands).I found very little testimonial or technical info on the KYB's (especially the Monomax which is fairly new) and mixed 50/50 good/bad reviews on Edelbrock. (I chose Gabriel because I found that they manufacture the Edelbrock and they are a slightly lower pressure version of the two-tube Edelbrock, at $20 each.)

Those that own Bilstein's pay a little more, but seem to love them to the point of being pushy about them (try a search on this site).

Most people and articles say that Monotube shocks are better, but less heat/fade and ability to mount upside down are the only real benefits I could pin down.

The Rancho 9000's are adjustable. That may be attractive to you for keeping softer on road and firmer off road.

There is also a cult-like following for Old Man EMU shocks from Australia. I only know what their web site says and that those who own them are as enthusiastic as the Bilstein owners.

Warn Black Diamond: Poor reviews from magazines and testimonials. Stated as "too soft".

Explorer ProComp: Very similar to the Rancho line (I think they are both by Tenneco), but a little less money. Mixed reviews. seem ok, standard gas shocks.

It sounds like you already know some or all of this because you narrowed down to the monotube shocks. I can not give you direct info. but what I learned over the weeks of searching, reading and talking may save you a little time. Hope it helps.
Rob

 

[Meth713]

Wow, hey thanks for the replies guys.

After more research I have purchased gabriel VST's.... I will see how i like em when i get em

My 97 explorer with 65K miles still has the stock shocks.... Im trying to get rid of what i call "soccer mom suspension".

 

[InspectoRob]

Soccer Mom suspension, that is pretty good description for the stock shocks.

I bought my 94 with 145K miles, but with new engine. I am now replacing parts, like the shocks. I felt like I was standing up in a canoe!

I think any new shocks would make a big difference, but I like the vst's. Let me know what you think!

Rob

 

[Hartman]

I have KYB MonoMax shocks and they are very good and I'm lowered. They are shocks made for stock height and they have not worn abnormally. I've heard good and bad about Edelbrocks. KYB and Edelbrocks are similar in price, but if you're looking to get something that is good but not quite expensive, go with the Gabriels.

 

[SaleenEXP]

I have the Edelbrocks and love them, huge difference in handling and ride. I got my friend who had Bilsteins on his Eddie Bauer and Cobra rims, rode very harsh, so he replaced them with the Edelbrocks and says it's a lot better now. KYB does make a good shock though also.

 

[wonsek]

I am very new to the forum so what I am saying here may be old news but here goes.

I put these on my XLT 2 years ago, about 18,000 miles later and I have to say I am disappointed. They have all rusted like crazy. It started at the 6 month mark. No leakage yet, but its only a matter of time judging by the rust. What bums me out the most is that the truck is in excellent condition but those rusty shocks just kill the perceived value.

The ride is not as good as when they were installed. After 2 years and low milage (all highway) they should have done better.

As others have said, you get what you pay for.

93 XLT with 119,000 miles (a trooper!)
2002 GTI 1.8T (in shop more than I would like)
1991 BMW K100RSA (my personal favorite)

 

[wonsek]

Follow up to last post. Forgot to mention:

I was refering to the Gabriel VST's.

 

[InspectoRob]

Did you try to get new ones with the warranty? I doubt that they would cover rust, but if they lost any gas pressure it should be covered. You may want to unbolt one to see how much pressure is left, since you said the ride is not as good. Let me know.
Rob

 

[wonsek]

I keep meaning go for the warrenty deal. Your right, they may not cover rust. Unfortunatel, my bigger problem is that I was a total newbie when I bought them and payed way to much for them. Even worse, way to much for the installation. I know my shop will get the new shocks for me, I just don't want to pay them the (I'm so embarrased) $130.00 they charged me to install them (I refuse to disclose what they charged me for the shocks themselves).

In spite of my inexperience then, I still like the garage-I just hammer them on pricing now where as before I did not know any better...

Live and learn.

 

[Hartman]

$130 for installing 4 shocks!?!?! Dude, no offense, but you got ripped off big time. I replaced all four of my shocks in about 45 minutes with little hand tools. That would equate to about $45-50 for a shop's hourly rate!

 

[SaleenEXP]

you got gipped bro, my edelbrocks were installed for $30 total, 15 for front and 15 for back at Meinike.

 

[wonsek]

I know, I know. Can you believe I still talk to those guys?

I think I'm going to waive those recipts under thier nose tomorrow and get free shocks and install...

Thanks to this forum I will never make that mistake again...

 

[InspectoRob]

Hey, $130 may be high, but you may have saved a lot in aggrevation! check this out.

when I installed my rear, the left shock bottom bolt would not push through after nut removal because it was fused with corrosion to the steel sleeve inside the rubber grommet. Using a 3 ft. rebar drift and a 15lb. sledge only bent the inside mount (a little)! I borrowed a grinder to cut off both ends of the bolt, and that worked out, but I drove with no rear shocks to the hardware store to buy new bolts!

When the front shocks came in (Pep Boys) I installed them. The bottom mounts promptly broke right at the beginning of the threaded part. When the first broke I thought that I was being too aggressive or sloppy, but the second did the same dispite my being VERY careful. It has been about 3 weeks since this happened. I mounted the fronts at the top and the bottom are just pushed on to the smooth studs and wire prevents them from slipping off. I am fixing this weekend, by grinding the rivet head off and drilling out, replacing with Grade 8 cap screws and washers (I bought a grinder, figured I may be using it in the future).

I am afraid that the bolts will have play due to only being attached on one side. Does anyone have a good fix for this? Has this happened to anyone else?

The original equipment shocks must have been overtightened to snap like that. I am replacing my radius arm bushings too, so I will be there anyway.

Rob

 

[wonsek]

Rob, you make a good point.

I went back to my shop and waived the reciepts around (not literally, I was nice) from the initial install. They pulled up my records from 2000 (turns out the shocks are 3 years old, not 2). There on the screen was a detailed report of the difficulties they encountered during installation. Almost all the problems Rob mentioned were listed there (the old OEM shocks had made it to 100K). Total shop time was 2.75hrs, they charged me for 2. An additional note on the shop order showed the following (which I forgot about because it was not on the reciept, I noticed it after a few days):

Noticed rear passenger side door lock not working, tested and located faulty connection. N/C.

Far passenger side HVAC vent broken. Replaced with unit from yard. N/C.

Thats not the first time I remeber them doing something like that. This is an indication of the type of shop it is. They are very well respected in the area and I have been doing business with them for 6 years. They are pretty high-class and I don't mind paying extra for that kind of service. The best part is they are around the corner from my office.

So here is what they are offering me. No questions asked on replacing the rusty Gabriels w/new. Shop time will still be 2 hours but at old 2000 rates (they now charge $150/4 shocks vs. $120). I also need tires so they quoted me $125 each (shop cost) for Michelin LTX M/S plus $15/tire to mount and balance. He also said if I found them on internet cheaper ($104 before shipping from Tire Rack) and he would mount them. Am I crazy?

I get a lot of peace of mind dealing with these guys and thats hard to put a price on.

 

[wonsek]

Just called local dealer. $500.00 for new OEM shocks (which I wouldn't even want) all around with a crummy 6 month warrenty.

So I guess there is a whole range from backyard mechanic cheap to soccer mom dealer expensive. Looks like I'm somewhere in the middle.

no really, I'm not trying to justify all this

 

[InspectoRob]

New shocks and tires, you will be ready for Winter!

I think that the shipping is $15 to $20 ea. for tires from tirerack, so you might do well to get them from your service station. They do seem real fair after all! Others on this site have had trouble with Tirerack due to the lawsuits over Firestone etc.. If you order from them, tell them you have a Ranger or something.

What did your shop do with the front bottom bolts? Mine broke, did yours? I am curious to find out what others (and shops) have done.

Rob

 

[wonsek]

wow, $15-20 per tire for shipping? I guess that is a good deal from my shop. Its my understanding tire rack won't sell non-OEM size tires (ex. 16" and 17" aftermarket wheels and tires) due to liability. They will sell stock sizes to any Explorer owner. I read a thread about this somewhere. No matter, I will be ordering from the local boys.

I did not see anything about the bolt issue but I will ask them tomorrow. If I find something I'll let you know.

I can't wait for the snow.

Ed