Problems with unlocking driver door | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Problems with unlocking driver door

So can someone clarify....

on a 98 xpsort the drivers side lock will not work with key, only from inside pushing the button several times while pulling handle. Accuator or latch?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





xsport

Hey, ton_e_montana,

Hard to say, but sounds like maybe a linkage is not connected, perhaps, or it could be something internally within the latch. If your linkage is disconnected from your cylinder arm I believe, like mine, the cylinder will rotate but doesn't do anything. If it's just a cylinder or its linkage you are lucky in that they are easy to replace/reconnect.

If your actuator is not working it probably won't make noise. I cannot see how an actuator linkage could come undone it is fashioned in a "U", unless the lever arm going into the latch itself breaks or for some reason doesnt do what it is supposed to do.

You'd really have to pull your door trim panel and peel back the watershield for a look-see inside to see what's going on.

twomedicine in smoke filled and very warm E Glacier, MT
 






Re: So can someone clarify....

Originally posted by ton_e_montana
on a 98 xpsort the drivers side lock will not work with key, only from inside pushing the button several times while pulling handle. Accuator or latch?
Thats the same problem that we have. The little spring broke. That's the only way I can get out of mine. My remote doesnt unlock it either. I have to open the back door, reach around and twist the button a little, while pressing the unlock button and eventually it will unlock.
 






door latch installed

Received the latch in the mail late this afternoon. Installed it tonight with some difficulty, but it works great and has a door closing sound like a new vehicle.

I think the key is removing the window track as I stated in an earlier post. Then disconnect all linkages possible before removing the latch. I had to twist the latch downwards into the bottom of the door just after disconnecting the actuator from its bracket, as x24 stated, and then it was in place for disconnecting the actuator linkage, electrical connectors, and then the "s" connection at the end of the interior door release lever rod.

After getting the latch outside of the door, the key cylinder rod can be removed as well as the door lock button linkage. I removed them and then installed them into the new latch quickly so I wouldn't forget their positions. The nice thing about the new latch was all the clips, and grommets were all ready to go, and the latch was pre-greased.

For me the hardest task was snapping that actuator back into its mounts in the bracket. After I was able to do so without breaking anything, the rest went back together easily. I did have to take a few breaks during the process because I lost patience several times and was ready and willing to break or bend something or other.
 






Maybe I will give it a shot. Thanks for the write up twomedicine.

How long did it take you to install it?
 






job time

Yes, the job isn't that bad if you take your time. I think the heat & smokey air made it somewhat irritating of a task.

The time it took me was so broken up I cannot say how long, but from start to finish I'd give yourself at least 4 hrs. You at least will be able to take care of that actuator faster than I, but make sure you pay attention, or diagram where the linkages fit and also the wiring harness mounts/fasteners (one is into the window track tab and another into actuator bracket).

I also am a clean freak and took extra time to clean behind the watershield and also the backside of door trim panel. Also, I duct taped a few spots on that watershield like around the interior door latch since I could see evidence of outside air intusion. The dirt roads here are extremely dry and dusty.

I also adjusted my striker to perfection after installing the new latch. It now works so nice I almost wished the others would break so I'd have all new latches (not really, I think I'd rather change a rear axle seal than to mess with another latch)

Good luck, and if you need the diagram sent via email of the assy (it was sent to me by Torrie @ fordpartsnetwork.com) let me know since the bitmap is still on this computer////
 






Ok so my drive door lock has the not popping up problem as well. Worse in cold weather but none too good. Keyless entry doesnt help. Are you gentelmen telling me there is some confounded little spring deal in there that i have to mess with and or replace and not just get a new actuator? I hear my actuator trying to go, but it just doesnt have to power to pop the lock. Is there any way to get just the spring thing and not pay $150?

I guess i shouldnt complain after all the battles this truck has seen, but it sorta makes me want regualr locks and manual windows.
 






door problems cont.

lo_jack,

Hard to say what's wrong with yours. You really should take the door panel and the water shield off the inside of the door so you can observe what's not working properly.

The spring we have been mentioning is a part located within the latch assy, not the actuator. As far as I could see, the latch cannot be opened to replace that $1.00 spring, unless the tack welds were drilled out for possible access to do so.

I agree about having simple manual windows and door locks.....these repairs drive the $/mile up on these vehicles.

When looking inside the door I found using a headlamp very helpful while fooling around to see what was wrong and then again for doing the replacement
 






Question: When you press the unlock button, does the door make a noise like it is trying to unlock, but doen't?

If so, it is probably just stuck, and needs several good long shots of grease and rust cutter.

My exp had this problem and after a couple of doses of the grease/rust cutter it works like new!
 






I sprayed WD40 all over all my latches. They all open much easier now. My drivers door is definately broken tho. The little spring is snapped right in half.
 






wd 40

Yes mine was broken too, but nice and clean without rust. I think they got the springs from China. And yes, they need a good cleaning and lubing every so often

A note about using wd-40, something I have noticed about its use. Dirt and dust will be attracted to its residue, but if you use 100% silicone spray the dirt doesn't seem to gather where once applied. Also, I found that the stuff thickens up in below freezing weather; my semi-auto pistol would not send the action back all the way due to the thickening of the wd-40 I had sprayed it down with prior to some zero degree camping (I since used Mobile 1 on my pistol's action and it works fine in cold temps) I have used the silicone spray in my lock cylinders and used them in sub-zero weather without a problem
 






ok, I have the same broken little spring in my driver's side door. So, according to what Twomedicine said, what I have to do is get a whole new latch from Ford for ~$30, and install that? So there's no way to just get a new spring? Also how long did it take for the latch to get sent to your house? I'm probably going to be fixing this right away, I just took a look and found the broken spring. I'm afraid to take the whole latch out now cause I need my Exploder to get to school and I'm too big to crawl over the console if I can't get it back in right.
 






Well, I took it to the dealership yesterday, $73 out the door. The bill said it took them an hour labor and $30 for the latch. Not too bad to have it done while I was in class than for me to take a few hours w/ my arm's crammed inside the door.
 






Had same problem and dealer fixed it for one hour labor and $32 for part. The tech looked right at the door and showed me the little spring that is the culprit like so many in this thread have experienced. I was glad to know the issue I had wasn't a new one, thanks again everyone......
 






Door Lock not locking

While this thread is extremely helpful in undersdtanding how the X's locking mechanism works to get the door to open, I'm having the opposite problem of getting the driver side door of my 96 to lock. The power lock engages all doors and activates the "theft" light. The doors lock automatically when the X starts to roll. Although this sounds good, the driver side door can be open when the rod is down, from the outside. Additioanlly, the key does not lock / unlock the driver side door, or any door. The key does work on the passenger side and rear gate to lock and unlock. After reading this thread I'm assuming the rod has disconnected itself from the lock. Any ideas, suggestions, etc?
 






Alan, I would suggest opening up the door and taking a look. I just replaced my latch on my 98 and it was a pain. I did a writeup in this other thread if you need it here is the link.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113217&page=1&pp=20

In the other thread I tried to explain how to replace the latch. If you open it up and all the rods are connected and the actuator is trying to work when you press the lock or unlock button then it has to be the latch.

I could do it again in no time but I must have starred at it forever trying to figure it out when I originally did it.

Mikeh
 






on my 98 sport, my driver side door wont lock. when i press the button it makes a noise and kinda slowly goes down, but it doesnt full lock, i can still open the door from the outside. It sounds like that is either that little spring or the actuator, were are going to check that out this weekend.

ANother thing is that when i put the key in the door it doesn't do anything. It just turns back and forth. Could that be the actuator??
 






twomedicine said:
Yes, the job isn't that bad if you take your time. I think the heat & smokey air made it somewhat irritating of a task.

The time it took me was so broken up I cannot say how long, but from start to finish I'd give yourself at least 4 hrs. You at least will be able to take care of that actuator faster than I, but make sure you pay attention, or diagram where the linkages fit and also the wiring harness mounts/fasteners (one is into the window track tab and another into actuator bracket).

I also am a clean freak and took extra time to clean behind the watershield and also the backside of door trim panel. Also, I duct taped a few spots on that watershield like around the interior door latch since I could see evidence of outside air intusion. The dirt roads here are extremely dry and dusty.

I also adjusted my striker to perfection after installing the new latch. It now works so nice I almost wished the others would break so I'd have all new latches (not really, I think I'd rather change a rear axle seal than to mess with another latch)

Good luck, and if you need the diagram sent via email of the assy (it was sent to me by Torrie @ fordpartsnetwork.com) let me know since the bitmap is still on this computer////


Do you still have the diagram? If so, can i give you my email address?
 






e-mailing it?

Are you kidding me? With all these problems, please post the diagram!
<Can you tell I'm having the same issue and JUST found this thread?!?!>
Karl
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





my door wont unlock on my 98. i took it apart and it looks like i have a bent rod in there so i messed with it a bit and it was working fine with the remote but then i stuck the key in there and it stopped again. i havent had time to do it again and then not stick in the key but i found that worked pretty well.
 






Back
Top