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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I may also be able to "fix" this by adding bumpstops. No...i don't have any right now. How have you all mounted yours? I was thinking about adding them inside the coil, similar to a jeep setup.
Calling in the group on this one. I have a 93 with full width dana 44 1 ton steering with tie rod flip. I moved the axle forward a couple inches when building it a couple years ago. The 1 ton linkage is brand new. The problem is that because I have so little lift (~5" total) i'm smacking the...
Ok so i did some ckp testing. I have voltage to the sensor. However, i'm picking up no ac volt at the sensor while cranking the engine. I took it off and put it in my vice, hooked up my leads and passed a screw driver past the pickup and nothing as well. Does this sound like a thorough test?
OK.... To test i'm going to seeing by that pull a part and get a new CPs. I have a test light and I do have power to the coil. I might throw my old coil on to see if I may had a bad one (another pull a part piece). I'm showing no spark at all right now. Pulled a plug out put it on the manifold...
OK trying the tap idea right now. Just waiting for the electrical cleaner to dry. I've had a hard start issue for a while now. The truck doesn't get driven much. That CPS has definitely been underwater though. If I were to clear the codes would that show on a koeo test
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I have a code 14 which is a circuit fault in the ignition... Where do I start looking though for the source? I can sas an explorer just fine but electronic issues are black magic to me. Just looking for a nudge in the right direction. Thanks
I'm alone trying to diagnose a no start condition on my 93. I really need a way to start the truck under the hood. I can't find what i'm looking for though. Any tips? Thanks
Of course replace fuel and fuel filter. once done when you turn the key to run do you hear the hum of the fuel pump. If not check the fuses/relays if they test out good then think about replacing the pump.
Not sure where you could find a brand new module other than directly from ford. You can shift the x-case manually. Just take the shift motor off and turn the selector in the case. While you're there might just try to see if the shift motor is working. If not used they will kind of seize up...but...
They are great, i am on mine all the time! I cut out my rockers and placed the sliders where they use to be. It really tucks them up nice and high and gives me 2"s total of clearance under the body with no extra lift. With the setup I talked about above you'll be able to do a ton.
Mine (35"s...
You got the one from the junk yard! nice :D
Now...find me one of those nice rust free tejas 1st gens for a couple hundo ;). I want a minimal rust roller for a resto
Personally i'd say neither. Save your money, a sas is way overkill for a dd sometimes trail toy with only 33"s. I'd put your coil overs on like you said, shackles, then spend the rest of the money on a set of air lockers, gears, sliders, etc.
I had issues on long extremely steep hills...and in the rocks it plain sucked. With the 5.13's i idle over stuff I use to have to struggle over. Proper gearing just makes everything nice. I hope to put a doubler in sooner than later...
Just cut the fenders and rub them. Id you hit cut more. I had 31 and 3.27s and it sucked off road in low range and i have a manual. My 35s with 5.13s are so much better. I just idle it die the trail and burp the throttle when needed.
I have a full width 79 d44 under mine. Not that hard to space out the top coil buckets. They CAN be narrowed...just a pain. If you want to run leafs though...pre 78 is your best bet. I'd go with what you found.