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you could wire it to each coil if that amp does a 2 ohm load per channel (wouldnt recommend it), easiest way is to wire the sub to a 4 ohm load and then bridge the amp, but you best bet is to find an amp that is 1 ohm stable and wire the sub to that

^^^ exactly my point, theres a reason for rolling dynos, yeah it might give you a ball park estimate but its wont be wheel horsepower, theres no way that obd2 thing takes into account all the drivetrain loss

so it measures crank hp not wheel hp so it'll probably be alot less than that, when i had one of those wireless obd 2 things hooked to my phone it wasnt terribly accurate

i thought auto-4h-4l the auto was basically 2wd but not true locked 2wd if it detected slip then it engaged the front wheels

you need to take wires from the left or right rear speaker and put those into the line out converter forget about the stock amp and sub stuff

not in my truck, but just finished the build in my civic 4 18" dc audio lvl 5, 2 american bass 1100.1, 4 batteries, 2 alts, 59.8 certified in term lab, shes loud

https://www.rigidindustries.com/category-s/129.htm i had these but the duallys and they will out shine everything

Like how are the subs wired to the amp? 1-2-4 ohm?

What do you have it wired to?

What amp are you using?

if you want quality then id go with morel components, there probably the best sounding set of speakers ive ever heard, and depending how much bass you want you could go with sundown audio, american bass, dc audio are really good quality

yeah not to worried about the air, its been sitting a few weeks and im waiting to put rims on it when it goes in for some work in the next couple days, so figured i'd worry about it then

hey just thought i'd post some pictures of my sport, got bored and decided to paint all the grey trim black, turned out pretty good imo, tell me what ya think.

thats not bad, but its not that great either for what you have

in all honesty i stopped buying audio branded wire along time ago, not worth the money when you can go buy 0 gauge welder cable for atleast half the price and in most cases it has twice the amount of strands of copper in it as the branded crap

ya you cant ive tried everything, and by stripped i meant i got replacement glass that didnt have the factory crap

awhile ago i got mine done, stripped the factory tint all out and put all new tint in my sport only cost me $180

i wouldnt worry about a high output alternator to much, even if you had 10 lights running its only drawing 30 amps, even if you fired them all at once i wouldnt think it'd be a huge problem

its tan/yellow i believe, comes out of the pcm on the passenger side i think

v8 ones won't fit and the ohv ones only fit 2 bolts, if i were you i'd go spend the extra and buy a 220a one

go buy a dc lvl4 15"

sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere

i've clipped it before, but it was because i have a adjustable voltage regulator and was seeing how far i could push the system, had it up near 15.4v to get more out of my amp, made more power, but it was dirty power, but i know my subs can take it, they will supposedly take 10,000 rms burps and...

ya not alot of people know what there doing, but ya for mine the knob is turned to max then the gain on the amp is set, so i can only turn it down from where its set and not up, most people forget about that, and end up clipping there stuff

alot of amps have a bass boost knob, that will cause distortion, thats completely different from a gain knob