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I think I posted above a link to how to replace the rear latch or rear actuator assembly.

Sometimes it is not the latch but a malfunctioning actuator that is preventing the lock unlock lever to get into the right position. Be absolutely sure the spring is broken before replacing it. I never did get the idea of why once one had everything opened up why one didn't replace top to bottom...

See if the instruction in paragraph number one of the very FIRST post on this thread (page 1) will help you. (Note, read ALL of the posts and understand ALL of the nuances before commencing this project for real!)

See thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=170619&page=2 for other posts about the outside handle.

Three doors, three problems. The loose handle one probably will involve taking the door panel off and fixing or replacing the handle as in the thread http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165081 . The rest you will also have to take the door panel off and see what is happening...

Hmm, $40 for a spring. You'd think someone would make an OEM or some such replacement somewhere. I wonder where Ford gets their's.

There are posts that discuss that. I think the problem is getting a compression spring with the right tension to replace the spring. Also, since I haven't done it, I don't know if it can be installed without disassembling the latch itself which probably can't be done easily. It seems that is why...

No sound when you push the lock unlock switch. Bum actuator maybe? You think? Perhaps if it is seized and it is not allowing the door to lock? That's what happened to mine. Try taking the actuator out of the bracket and allowing it to hang so it doesn't put any strain on the lock lever and...

The door latches right? It opens with either the outside or inside handle right? I think what you have was the symptom when my actuator was frozen. (It sounds like it works when you push the button, but it doesn't) See if when you push up on where the actuator attachés to the latch to its other...

Every post is important My suggestion to a newbie is to read every single post above and understand all the nuances. For instance, the warning about the wires to the window track is found in post # 11. They are all relevant.

Makes me think it might be the actuator since that is the operable lever at that point. I'm surprised that the inside door rod didn't open it up since that pretty much overrides everything as a safety measure. Don't scrimp, replace both and have peace of mind. Do mark where the push rod goes...

It is really impossible to say if it is the latch or the actuator long distance. At least I don't know how to differentiate between a broken spring or a stuck actuator with the mechanism in the car. I thought mine was a broken latch mechanism but after I got it out and looked at it, there were...

If you go to the top of the page and look for the search pick and put in "replace window" a couple hundred (maybe not that many) threads will be listed!

Suggest you fix the one you can open as soon as possible. I assume you have the door panel off on that already. I found that my latch got stuck because the actuator was defective. I bought a latch from the dealer (only place) and an actuator from Autozone since I was going to tear it down anyway...

If you have access to the latch, have you tried holding and/or moving the various levers by themselves?

The pictures at the very first posts no longer show to anyone. In any case, they are not my pictures so I can't help you. The person you want to e-mail privately is "cherrybomb" the original poster.

Problem solved with the two screws in door panel replacement problem. The C shaped channel at the top of the door next to the weather seal and lock push button had gotten bent over so that the panel wouldn't hook in correctly at the top right. Although I could force the Christmas tree pins in...

Problem solved with the two screws. The C shaped channel at the top of the door next to the weather seal and lock push button had gotten bent over so that the panel wouldn't hook in correctly at the top right. Although I could force the Christmas tree pins in and all that, it just wasn't lined...

Problem solved with the two screws, hurricanevic09 you are a genius. The C shaped channel at the top of the door next to the weather seal and lock push button had gotten bent over so that the panel wouldn't hook in correctly at the top right. Although I could force the Christmas tree pins in and...

It looks like that is the outside door handle "kluge" fix. How's your outside door handle?

Make sure you reinstall the right window track before moving the window up if you have already removed it. If you haven't already that could also be one of your problems. I would get the window up and then go back down through all the steps, not skipping any, they are all important. (With the...

I'm pretty sure the window has to be up as you said in order to give you the room to rotate the lock if all of the other rods are free. I did mine with with window up. Hope your window mechanism is in good shape because it would seem simply giving the vehicle a jump might give you enough power...

Please explain which rod you mean, where does it go, from where to where. Also, did you miss any steps. Any possibility of swapping in a battery just to raise the window and do job?

I am having door panel re-installation problems. I can't get the two screws above the inside door handle to line up and catch. Any suggestions? (I have thought of using two eight inch or so stiff wires, perhaps cut from a coat hanger, through the holes in the panel and into the threaded clips...

No there isn't. I did it two ways, first I lined everything up including the plastic Christmas tree rivets and actually banged in the panel. At that point I couldn't find the holes with the screws. The second way was to hang the panel but not bang in the rivets. Pushing in the panel at the...