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figured I'd update this. I had to replace driver side rear wheel bearing so i got a loaded moog knuckle. been just over a year and the bearing went bad. instead of replacing it under warranty, i said screw it and got a cheap 20-ton press then got a timkin bearing and hub and pressed that into...

****. may have a problem then. there's no sludge, though. had a valve cover off when i changing the vvt solenoid, it was clean. but, and this is gonna sound stupid, i was changing the plugs and a screwdriver fell in the open hole. when i was pulling it out, i twisted it by accident and i could...

i'd say a quart every two weeks or so. i'm just curious really. i'm normally very religious about the oil changes, but there was a period a couple years ago where i let it go about 20,000 miles over. i've always wondered if that contributed to the burning now. or if they're all getting like that...

got 195,000 miles on my 2010 4.6, and it's been burning oil. just curious if anyone else with a high-mileage 4.6 have the same issue?

Thanks for the awesome write-up! I already bought the KYB's so I guess I'm stuck. That's ok though, I got the 20" OEM wheels and drive like a goddamn maniac (northeast driving right? lol) so if they handle better i'm on board!

Hey did you ever get these going? I'm looking to buy the KYB's and was just wondering how you like the ride. thanks!

awesome write-up!

I'd say about 8 hours, but I split it up over the 3-day weekend. It actually wasn't that bad. Just the fact that the A/C evap unit didn't have to be removed pretty much removed all the stress. If I had known that going in, I would have had a smile on my face!

If you take off the steering wheel, the clockspring is exposed. It's not supposed to be rotated, so I taped it to the steering column

I already did a blend door a few years ago, without removing the dash. How I don't know. I had to bend my hands in ways that I didn't think was possible lol

Thanks Rick! Appreciate it! :chug:

So now that our '06-'10 Explorers are getting up there in age and mileage (I know mine is, 167,000) you might have to replace your heater core. I started hearing the engine fan roaring on the highway, I figured cause it was hot weather. Then I check the coolant and it's low. Fill it and go a...

same boat. I had a 2008 and now my 2010, brakes on both are absolute garbage

I did it, to be honest I didn't really notice any improvement. But I usually try to stay current

yep, been running the motorcraft fl820s since I bought it with 25,000 miles. I've read how some filters don't have a proper checkvalve and let oil drain back, thanks. Now onto the exhaust manifold which I'm sure will have broken studs and will be a nightmare, lol

Just wanted to update this. After dealing with this for a year and replacing the tensioners again with ford OEM tensioners, noise was still there. I finally replaced the passenger-side VVT solenoid and that fixed it! I couldn't believe the solenoid could cause a rattle like that. Hope this helps...

I have a regular 2010 explorer with a 4.6, not a ST, but here are the problems I've had: The trans "bumps" when coming to a stop, almost feels like you're getting rear-ended. very annoying. The 2010 has a 6R80 trans which was supposed to fix the problem but it's still there. A dealer flashed...

Sounds good. All I'm saying is that it might not be a bad idea to replace them anyway, especially with that mileage. It could fix your problem and prevent you from being stuck on the road. Here's a video when mine went bad, notice how the RPM drops when the warning kicked on, I guess because the...

Are you sure it's not the wheel bearings? Just saying, they are notorious for going bad. I've had a 2008 and a 2010 and they've gone bad on both. It might not be a bad idea to replace them. When the bearing went bad on my 2010, it screwed up the ABS sensor. A loud alarm sounded from the...

No, and I've read that on this forum! all of the plugs were 3/8

No problem! I used all valvoline oil, 75w140 synthetic for the rear, 80w90 non-synthetic for the front. For some reason, the service manual doesn't state to use synthetic in the front, and I couldn't find it two different auto-parts stores anyway. For the transfer case, valvoline has an oil just...

I just changed the oil on both axles and transfer case on my 2010 with a 4.6 and just thought I'd post this, maybe it will help someone else out. It was easy! Rear axle had both a fill and drain plug, I crawled underneath and was able to get to both with a 3/8 ratchet. Drained oil and pumped in...

Yeah I found it. I had a buddy help me and the driver side wasn't plugged all the way in (I swear it wasn't me!). I'm glad it was simple. Thanks guys!

Hi all, I just replaced both front wheel bearings on my 2010 EB 4.6 and now have the "Service RSC", traction control, and ABS lights on the dash. I know it has to be related to the bearings since the ABS sensor is in there, but I'm at a loss as to what to look at. Anyone run into this? Thanks!

I think that means cryogenically frozen