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Ok thanks. Didn't know if there were any benefits to spending more on new end links with the bushings. As I said, my end links look in good shape with no rust. Wasn't sure how long they last.

Keeping same stock sway bar. Just looking to change out the bushings or end links.

I want to replace the rear sway-bar bushings on my 98. Should I buy the rear bushing kit or spend more and get new rear end links? My end links are in good shape, just the bushings are worn. Are the old bushings difficult to get off? Are my current links reusable?

The biscuits also can be reused if they are in good condition. Reused mine with my MAC back and they hold great.

+1. I just did this but on a V8.

MAC intake way to go!:biggthump:

I know certain mustang ones do work. Not sure of #19?

Ok. Thanks for the advice. I tried pushing it up and off—it is frozen on there. I will try hitting it off. Is it better to have it on a jack or with the tire on? When I had it jacked up (on stands) the control arms aren't level which my be causing the end link to stay put?

If all of your springs are in place and the boots are seated correctly then there is a adjuster spindle (little cylinder with teeth on it) at the bottom of the rear brake assemble (mounted horizontally). You should spin that to spread out your shoes, then check when putting rear rotor back on...

I am in the process of replacing the front end links. I've got the bottom nut off but the top nut just spins the link shaft inside the collar without it coming off the tread. As a result, the end link is still connected by the top and won't budge! Can I just hammer it from the bottom? torch...

I got mine 3 weeks ago, so this is recent. Maybe they are working on there CS. I can only speak that I had no problems and were told none of what I wanted (intake and cat-back) was in stock and would have to be made. Was told it would take a week to make and a week for delivery. Everything came...

http://www.macperformance.com makes them per order, not usually in stock for our year explorers. Only takes a week at most to make. Mine took a week along with my exhaust they also had to make.

Jack up one side and put one hand on the top and the other on the bottom of your tire. Apply pressure (push) the top of the tire while pulling from the bottom of the tire—back and forth. Also repeat procedure with hands on left and right of the tire. It there is movement, then your replacing...

I'm running the Brembo rotors. High quality, proper thickness. No issues. Got for $40 a rotor for front.

MAC intake in now. I will report if further (unscientific) gains happen after this fill-up. PCV and fuel filter this weekend.

It does.

Oh haven't done the intake yet, just the cat back with mileage gains. I'll look into it then as I don't want to loss mileage with an intake. Not exactly a fan of paying more for the gas though. I think it would be a wash comparing mileage to paying higher price for gas.

I only noticed a very large increase in mileage with the new MAC exhaust. Will this custom tuning only change my shift points or other things relating to having to use premium gas? It would offset any mileage gains if I had to switch to premium.

Everything stock? I noticed my improvement after I replaced a leaking muffler.

You must have the V6?

I have a pressurized hand pump for bleeding, but it kept producing air bubbles from a loose connection to the bleeder I guess—could never get it right. It works better on my motorcycle. So I resorted to the "brake pumping method." I was going to crack open the ABS again and try to suck out the...

Just an unscientific observation: I took possession of a 98 XLT V8 with 233,000 miles, stock tires (was my dads). I was getting 215 miles on a full tank of gas since having the truck over the past few months. Checked the plugs and all looked as if the pins had melted off (obviously my dad...

Thanks! They warned me I was lucky that the HCU was still operational. They stated that they can be damaged from air getting in and being trapped with fluid still inside. This causes extra pressure(combo of air and fluid) in the HCU chambers leading them to fail (I guess there are fragile...

It was the master cylinder. I replaced it and it still had some play in it. In the end took it to Ford for the ABS flush/reset. Cost $120. I now have brakes finally!

Still no change. I rebled from rear to front and then MC. A bubble came out of the RR...that was it—all others were clear fluid, no hick-ups. Still very firm pumping brakes with engine off, but when engine on, to the floor.