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the pep boys and autozone "strobes" are pitiful. sure they are super cheap but you are paying for quality.

Im a emergency equipment upfitter and I sell and install all types of emergency equipment if anybody ever has any questions feel free to ask.

hats what im thinkin but i dont have any known enemies here.. unless Micheal Luthy has traveled 1500 miles from California to drain my fluid and then return to LALA land

thats just the thing, the case was clean of fluid... and to put the shift rails issue to bed once and for all... the holes were plugged and then sealed with High temp RTV sealant. I know it DID NOT leak thru there they are baffled.

shop. i dont have the time or energy to do so.

haha... the punishment is having to pay 2700 to fix the effing thing

I do.

transmission fluid, not oil and 2wd

the shift rail plugs were already replaced. that was NOT the issue

when I installed the Trans on 5 -26-10 i made sure i filled it EXACTLY how it should be. everything was tight and as it should be then housing had no evidence of leakage, no residue i think somebody ####ed with me i havent seen any puddles anywhere

dontcha think that was the first thing I checked?! the plugs are perfect, seals perfect, case perfect. nobody knows how my fluid dissapeared.

Wellll found out whats wrong. transmission somehow drained itself of all fluid, and locked itself up and then in turn fried the clutch and flywheel the trans was brand new rebuild. no idea where the fluid went, all seals were good, no fluid residue on the trans itself. so now i have a...

Yeah I'm thinking clutch also... I got it towed back to the place I work now gotta get it home. I've noticed that while it will start just fine with the clutch depressed and the trans in neutral. If I let up on the clutch while its still in neutral, as I let up on the clutch the rpms drop like...

Ok so here's what happened today, I was driving down the highway at about 65 when it made a funny slight clunking sound then I lost all drive. Shifter is still free to move. However once I got it pulled over, I was doing some trouble shooting and it would start and idle just fine. However...

Quick question for ya'll.... is the M5od from a 3.0 the same internally as the 4.0?

well basically i used my socket and a 3 ft breaker bar, finally got the upper y-pipe bolts out. but was unable to get all the lower y-pipe bolts. So i pulled the entire exhaust system to fix a small leak i had.

got the trans out...

Got the transmission out. Finally lol.

Its a manual. I knew it was stuck in third cause that's where the shifter was and no codes in a manual

yes, starter is pulled, transmission is completely disconnected from the body and as of this second is only being held up by at tranny jack. Ive tried god knows how many ways and this damn thing isnt cooperating. how did you get it out w/o pulling the exhaust?

well I've already taken it back, now they are trying to find me a suitable replacement.

I have air impact and have used about half a can of PB but still no movement... its a 2wd, and a manual the trans is already completely disconnected

Well the bolts that I'm talking about are the 4 center bolts, not removing the entire thing... just enough to let it sag down far enough to gain the clearance I need

Well I'm outta jackstands lol this damn transmission swap will be the death of me. Exhaust bolts are very happy where they are at, and are resisting every effort to be removed.

As some know I'm trying to pull my tranny out but having issues... Is it safe to unbolt the radius arm crossmemeber while the truck is on jacks under the beams?