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idle air control valve. Clean it with carb cleaner. Try not to tear the gasket. I've had good luck cleaning them but I have had to replace them. Its located near the throttle body. It actually bypasses the throttle body when actuating.

Well I figured out how to engage it back to 2 hi. turn the encoder to the general are of Hi and leave the motor apart but plugged in. Use vice grips (loose) to hold the transfer case selector shaft at, or past, the Hi mark. I used a motor support bolt to keep the vice grips sprung in the that...

I've been on here a long time and most of my problems were resolved by searching, but I haven't been able to find an answer for this one. 95 explorer with the dial type auto 4wd system. The problem was no engaging of 4wd hi or low but drove great. I pulled the shift motor and inspected the...

"Browns of two rivers". cooltruckparts.com

I know its an old thread but if you do a search for 'Browns of Two Rivers' they sell a lot of replacement panels for the Ex and Mountie's (some Mountie parts are referenced under explorer). I know some body shops swear by them because the panels are supposedly a thicker gauge then most...

YES THERE IS A WAY!!! Disconnect the O2 sensors, remove the cat section of pipe, plug the holes anyway you can (except one end), fill them with a mix of laundry detergent and hot water and let them sit overnight or longer, drain and rinse several times, reinstall. I had clogged cats on my...

I second the throttle body issue. There was a recall on the throttle body on my 97 5.0L for sticking. Factory replacement was an edelbrock ;) As for the TPS, If the TPS were bad it would buck like crazy and throw codes. HOWEVER, it could have come loose and shifted or still be loose and...

ATF will slowly burn off in a crankcase, so check the oil level often. It has anti-corrosive agents as the benefit and helps lube rubber seals, injector springs (in gas) and valve guides. It is not a sludge remover, or better yet, they make better sludge removers! Can it hurt your vehicle...

Read the posts here... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=392627 It was two posts above yours today.

I removed my shields with no adverse effects. Vice grips and a lot of wiggling. As far as insulation with the 5.0L the O.E.M replacement wires insulation (silver foil) likes to rub through the wire then arc off the exhaust manifolds in a short amount of time. I had three sets do this to me in a...

The gas fill flap is not a tight fit, it is vented, the force would have to be instantaneous to "bulge it out" or deform it. Nobody said the gas ignited, that's the point, it would need more air to do that, so thankfully it was a full tank. I believe if his ignition key is on, it will continue...

I had a similar issue with my 5.0 and a friends six ranger, cleaning the MAF and the Idle Air Control Valve cured both... Now I do them every fall regardless.

Something capable of doing what you described, would require a large amount of instantaneous force/pressure in the gas tank. (think about that for awhile...) Ignition of the fuel vapors in the tank would create that and your loud POP, but wouldn't it ignite the gas? NOT NECESSARILY! I have been...

THEGIRLIN, I just realized about your plug wires, since you doing them, Where the wires run down behind the alternator, make sure the wires are not touching the back of the alternator, I cooked two alt's in a month because of that.

As far as burnt valve. The valve does look like it got pretty hot. All the carbon is yellow ash.

Makes sense! I wasn't sure how long the gauge was. Another thing is on our gt40 heads, there are issues w/ 302 plug listings at the parts store. I have noticed some list for plugs w/ longer threading. I believe they assume all 302's have the same heads. I don't know what head that is and I...

That would not be cool! In looking at the pic, it makes me wonder how it happened. It looks as if the valve hit the pressure gauge. The reason I say that is if it were run for any period of time there would be carbon on the valve seat and valve break area. It's spotless. The plug threads...

Good! The pipes are a real puzzle to get out/in. It helps to remove the t.case skid plate. If your hands aren't small enough the o2 sensor plugs can be accessed through the inside of the vehicle under the center counsel (there is agood write up on this forum somewhere on pulling the center...

Yes, I am all fixed! My issue was a clogged cat. The second issue (which I created while doing the cat) was the 'stock' route for the plug wire, started arcing against the rear firewall. Originally, I had your exact issue W/O a code (ever), seafoamed it and cleaned the cats. It is a good...

No, It wont throw codes unless you alter the setup from the rear o2 sensors forward. So, to prevent codes you would have to keep the front cats at least. If your setup is the same as mine, four sensors and four cats. I had to keep the front cats in place. Starting from the engine it goes...

As for the vac line.. I believe yes. Because if you block that line it should kill the engine (If I remember correctly). My gas pressure is perfect. But I discovered the #4 plug wire route (through the top of the engine block, by the valve cover. was arcing out tic tic tic tic, after it warmed...

Actually it can also pop going straight.... IF EQUIPPED there is a cv joint on the front axle shaft by the T.case. Look for grease in the area that would have whipped out of the boot while spinning. It does sound like the front end when it goes. And if you have even a mild lift they die...

Is the occasional pop when you turn? that would be your CV joints. Any cracks in the rubber beehive boots?

Thats how mine was acting (just on hills or under load with to much gas). Now it misfires at idle so I don't drive it far. CATS- Does yours sometimes make a plunk noise like ignition in the exhaust header? Mine DID. Thats what made me think clog! When I pulled the cats I CLEANED them...

Hear we go... I seafoam on a regular basis. Silicone KILLS your o2 sensors and there is no silicone in seafoam (its mainly kerosene) thats why it says "o2 safe"...no silicone. I usually seafoam through the PCV system and use A THIRD of the can, more then that can cause plug fowling. And make...