Search results

I have a '95 with the electronic four wheel drive, It is full time all wheel drive with 30% of the engines power going to the front wheels and 70% going to the rear wheels. It is controlled by a microprocessor that is mounted under the driver's front seat. I disconnected it many years ago...

Drewmcg is right, I had C load tires on the back of my Aerostar and they were noisy as hell.

OK, this is sounding like the differential is making noise on the coast side of the ring gear. You might want to check the lube level, it could be causing the noise if it is low. It is easy to check, jack the truck up so you can get under it, don't forget to use jack stands, remove the plug on...

You're welcome.

Did you try what I mentioned?

There is one thing I forgot to mention, don't drive too fast when you are rocking the steering wheel, about thirty mph should be good. And do it on a lightly traveled road.

OK, does the noise get higher pitched as you accelerate and then slow down when you let off the gas? If you rock the steering wheel side to side, does the noise change or go away when the steering wheel is in one position and get worse when in the other position? This seems to be a bearing noise...

Is your Explorer two wheel drive or four wheel drive? From what you described it sounds like the differential is humming and the sound is being transmitted through the driveshaft to make it seem like the humming is in the front.

Try checking fuses # 2 it is a 30 amp,# 16 it is a 15 amp, and # 22 it is a 20 amp in the battery junction box. This is the black box on the driver's side of the engine compartment behind the battery. there might be a loose or dirty connection on one of them. Also check fuse # 20 it is a 5 amp...

Taking it out to get to the latch sounds like a good idea, even though the two seats on either side will fold out of the way, that still does not give you much room.

I tried that once and all it did was smear all over the glass. Maybe I should try putting some on a small putty knife and spoon it in the slide.

Maybe I didn't use enough silicone spray, yes anything else would keep smearing. Lubing the drivers side sounds like a good idea. Then you might not have to worry about the motor for a while. The passenger side motor was the original one? And it lasted 24 years, that's pretty good.

Glad you got the right part. What did you use to lube the window tracks? I have tried silicone and it just doesn't seem to work very well.

I found that Rock Auto has the right parts and reasonable prices, In most cases $5.00 or more lower than Advance. The shipping is pretty low too, the only downside is the one week wait.

I had the same problem with my '02, The only way to get the middle seat down was to push backwards on it and pull up the latch. I could not find anything to lubricate or adjust so i deal with it like it is.

Aerostars equipped with rear heat and A/C also have a valve located under the van on the driver's side.

In the first picture, the module with the two green wires is the brake light switch. The second picture with the white module and yellow connector is the chime module, the three empty spots are supposed to be there. In the same picture the green wire with the reddish connector does not look like...

The front diff. on the AWD aerostar does not have locking hubs, It is full time, So I don't think you would use that if you were looking for manual control. Like Brooklyn Bay said, You would be better off swapping parts from 4WD Ranger or Explorer.

I had a similar problem with my '95 Aerostar. Except I was not able to shut it off. The problem was inside the steering column, the actuator from the key switch to the ignition switch had broken. I had to replace the whole steering column.

I have been thinking of putting a 5.0 in my van. How difficult do you think that would be? Maybe a 5.0 and transfer case from a 95 explorer?

Aerostar fuse block diagram This is a copy of my 95 owner's manual. I don't know if the circuits are the same, it might get you going in the right direction.

I took one of the wheels off of my 02 explorer and put it on the front of my van. The wheel fit on but the 235/70-16 was too wide and the wheel offset was too negative( too far in.) So the tire hit the upper ball joint and would not turn. BB was right about them not fitting on the front. they...

bumpers :aerostar: when the bumpers are in one piece, they last forever. once they get even a little crack, they are done. I forgot to mention, my van has only 198,816 miles on it.

Tire size I did a little research and found out that if you use a 235/60-16, your speedometer will be off by only 2.8 mph. With the 235/70-16 the speedometer error would be about 6.4 mph. So, if the tires that are on the new wheels are in decent condition, you could use them, just keep in mind...

Ok, a bad MAF will cause a no start/hard start condition and yes if it disconnected, the vehicle will run rough, but it will run. if you look up some ford literature, you will see that they classify a barometric sensor as a MAP/BARO sensor. it is the same thing, it measures manifold absolute...