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You can I believe, I have never done it but I believe I have seen it done. The way I did it when I had a problem was to use a jack on the breaker bar. Pump it up a little bit, it will lift the vehicle just a bit, let it settle back down and do it again. Just do it slowly and be safe. Worked...

Should have bought it when you had the chance to get that "Sweet deal" for the low price of $140. hahahahahaha It is up to $318 now for 1 manual. http://www.ebay.com/itm/120753606032

I hope someone has an answer, I have this on the rears also. Fronts are good. I have taken them apart and wear on pads looks even. Mine is a 2002. Both sides are even but not a full wear on the entire rotor.

I knew Big Rondo would jump on here sooner or later with his links and everything. Rondo, you must have this saved somewhere, there is no way you type it out every time. Thanks Rondo. Good luck Super. Remember to post back either way, it helps others in their fix.

If I remember correctly I had to use a 14 and a 16 gauge wire. The Black one was the thicker of the two. You can get it pretty cheap in the Walmart auto department. About $4 a roll I think. It has been about 2 years since I had to do this fix, so I don't remember all the details. I do know it...

Yes you do. Follow the link that FordFool2 was kind enough to post for me when my link didn't work. I had the same exact problem with my car. Take your time and use a good bright flashlight. Undo all the electrical tape you can (carefully so you don't damage any wires yourself), shine the...

Thank you FordFool2 I think it may be because I just copied and pasted the post in the thread. It doesn't work for me as a link either. Probably should have checked that first?????

Below is the post that Big Rondo usually puts up. I was able to locate it for you. Try this out as it is a very common fix/problem for our trucks. A lot of wires and a lot of functions run through that door. I had similar electrical issues with my 02 xlt. The dome lights would stay on until...

There is a very good chance it is the ground wires in your drivers door. I am sure when Big Rondo jumps on here this morning he can link the fix for you, I believe he has them all saved somewhere. It is a pretty simple and cheap fix, it was free for me as I already had everything I needed...

Glad it worked out. Thank you for the update, it helps others out when they search the forum for their same problem.

I don't see a problem with it as long as it is sealed properly. But where did the drain hole go that this originally went into? I would try and find where it was in the first place and try and feed it back there. Just my opinion. Good luck and keep us updated.

Here is a link to his profile page http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/member.php?u=134770 All his write ups are in his signature. He does great write ups very easy to follow. Good luck

"I went to Ford" Your words not mine.

Not to be a jerk, but you drove to Ford Dealer at $3.40 per gallon. Refused to spend $2 each because you had to buy 3 and spend and extra $2 over what you needed, but are willing to spend the time driving around and wasting your time looking for a place to get one or two, when for $6 you could...

Had the same problem here. Took off the rear rotor, took out the pieces of the shoe, put it back together and noise is gone. Took me almost 2 months to figure this out. Sure wish this thread got bumped back then :)

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317978&highlight=rear+diff+change

Josh, This isn't the original thread but Big Rondo does link the fix in this thread. Again good luck with this, but these dumb little broken wires seem to be huge headaches for everyone.

Josh, Could all be related to a few broken wires in the drivers door boot. There is a good thread on here somewhere about that but rest assured as soon as Big Rondo jumps on here he will post it all for you. He must have it saved somewhere and just copies and pastes it. The dealer will tell...

Same here....no grinding. I wasn't convinced that the bearing was my only problem until we replaced it. Mine had completely come apart inside the hub. We had to use a welder to get the raceway out, that was actually the hardest part of the job was getting that out. Good luck with the fix and...

Mac, I had a very similar problem to what you are describing. Check my post here http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312249 swetrid nailed it on what was wrong with mine. Bad right rear wheel bearing and it is all better now. I can not even begin to describe how "unstable"...

I would certainly check the wires in the door first. It is fairly simple as there is a good write up on it, after yhat then search for something else. Yours is a 2002 so it is possible that this is your problem with all the times the door has been opened and closed.

I had the very same problem for 6 months. A brand new battery from advance. They tested it and tested it, always came back saying "good needs charge" I couldn't do anything and start the car after. Finally I went to Advance, they ran the full battery test again, all tested good but got "needs...

Check out the sticky at the top on fixing the blend door. Big Rondo (mad props to him for his write up) shows with pictures and tools required how to remove the entire center console, but it starts out with the top tray.

Follow up on this..... Right rear wheel bearing was bad (no surprise there) What a Bi**h of a time getting it pressed out, came out in pieces and left the race in there. Had to hit the race quickly with a welder (had seen that hint in here somewhere) fell right out after that. Put it all back...

I also guess warped rotors and very easy to do at home. 2 rotors, 1 set of pads, brake cleaner. Some basic tools, a c clamp, jack and jack stands. You can be done in about 1 hour.