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If it looks good and it still fits correctly when you replace the idler, just keep it if you're looking to save money

Definitely gotta tighten that end link. I will say though that the tie rod does look like it has excessive play in it from the picture, but it could be deceiving. That looks just about as bad as mine that I just replaced, but I was getting bad shaking symptoms when I would turn slightly left.

My 03 mustang 6 disc in dash changer interchanged with my 99 mountaineer with the switch of one of the pins in the harness. The harnesses were the same mold, just one of the power wires was in the wrong pin location when i switched it over. Switching the radio out may fix the problem if it is...

With a sluggish lock I'd be willing to spend that much effort on it, so I may try that on the tailgate actuator because that's what I think the problem is. The rear door baffles me though just because of the repeated presses before any action is seen and it only responds to the fob it seems...

I did the spring trick to my front driver's door as was described on here in multiple posts and that fixed my problem with that door. The other two it appears have all the correct springs and rivets are solid in place. The rear driver's side door lock usually will not move or make any noise...

I have two door lock issues, and I'm sure most of you have had at least one of these dreaded issues, but I haven't had much luck with a search because it isn't the front driver's door as most old posts that I searched through refer to. 1.) Rear driver's side door - manually locking and...

The VIN doesn't really mean much as far as electrical goes. The last numbers are the actual serial number for the car which is why they're different, the other digits that are "the same" only show brand, model, type, chassis, assembly plant, engine, and year. Radio controls you should be able...

You want to run that tire size on your stock rims? or is he giving you the rims? The tire is smaller, so it'll fit under the wheel wells and won't interfere with turns. It may not ride as well though and I wouldn't do any offroading if you are into that. I'm just not sure that it would fit on...

I have a pretty decent amount of vehicle electrical experience, and in my opinion, yes. I don't know much about the H1 bulbs though, so read up on them and make sure there isn't a big difference in power demand. If there is you may have to add a relay.

You don't want to fill it too much, because too much fluid is a bad thing. I believe most dipsticks are configured that when it is at the min level 1 quart will put it back to the correct level.

All Ford trannies I've ever dealt with take ATF. I've never seen a greased tower, just the bushings. I'd start there. Its easy to access the top of the tranny where the shifter meets to figure it out, get going! My clutch gave no warning when it went either, it was just like what you're saying...

Hmm, I stand corrected then.

When I was 17 and ruined an oil pump subsequently blowing a motor because I put stop leak in...I think I would have rather heard, "fix it right". You'll dig yourself into a bigger pit in the long run if you don't do it right.

they don't just sell the boot, i'd just replace it

Instead of using something to cover up a leak, find it and fix it. Stop leak stuff for the most part will ruin whatever you are trying to put it in to stop a leak. Oil, coolant, etc. Coolant leaks usually aren't too hard to find. Find where its coming from and then come back on here and maybe...

Try replacing the shifter bushings, in some older fords they were rubber and used to break up and fall into the tranny, but i dunno what years. I'm not sure what your definition of "sticky shifting" is, but you may have a clutch going bad. For the cold starts, clean the IAC valve. Search it...

No, the theft light does that on all of them with the PATS system. It's a chip in the key essentially. You more than likely can buy a remote with it if you have power door locks, but it has nothing to do with an alarm.

I second the low level idea. The temp will get hot because of the lack of fluid but the heat won't blow hot

4r55e in your '95.

depends on who buys it. you probably wont get many looks from people actually looking for a car. you'll probably only get looks from mechanics, and they're only looking for steals. i'd say as it sits right now probably like 500 bucks.

Yes all the late 90's have the PATS system. I would call the most rural Ford dealership in your area. Here in Pittsburgh suburbs, I can get a key cut and programmed for about 80. It shouldn't be 200.

If a plastic piece comes out in the pan and it looks like a "top" or "dradle", don't look around forever trying to figure out where to jam it back in. Just throw it away. I spent forever on that...

Did you disconnect the negative first and replace the negative last? If not, you might've blown the amp in the unit. I would imagine the fuse would blow first though. Even if it doesn't look blown, try another fuse just as a dummy precaution.

Since you're new, as a rule of thumb, before I do any mid-level or higher repair to my Mounty I check the forums here. It always gives you a heads up of what to expect and tips and tricks that the smart guys on these forums know. That being said, you will usually also see warnings about...

The tires have been on there since I bought the Mounty a little over a year ago, so I don't know what could have compromised the quality of the tire, but that is a good thought.