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this has happened to my friends honda accord, he let the car sit for a month (vacation) and when came back, the rears pulsated badly that the rotors were resurfaced again. It has nothing to to with the rotors (or if they came from china), you just have to used them often to prevent rust...

I bought mine at NAPA for $30 (SKF) OEM at dealearship is $42. Note that the seal design has been revised multiple times because they are prone to fail during re-installation. The new one is a 1 piece design and thicker. Rockauto sells the older version real cheap, don't buy those, get the...

here's a pic of the valve bleeder. It's covered by a rubber plug that is not that easy to open. You need to remove that rubber plug completely to expose the valve and spray PB Blaster before loosening it. It will strip if haven't loosened for a long time. I used Harbor Freight's Pneumatic Brake...

the mechanic did as what it says P0153 - Powertrain O2 sensor circuit slow response (bank 2 sensor 1) (upstream are sensor 1, downstream sensor 2) that's common for worn sensors to not switch properly or send a signal correctly.

If you're saving money, you could just replace the upstream sensors (bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1) the downstream are for emissions checking only, they don't have any effect on your engine. The upstream controls the A/F ratio. -----------------------------------------------------------...

Here in the US, the EPA fines companies (and sometimes individuals) if they release refrigerants in the atmosphere illegally. Refrigerant is harmful to the ozone layer, a nosey neighbor might report you for harming mother earth. Normally you drive the car to a shop, have them evacuate it and do...

Really depends on what kind of parts, it's fair if they're using Motorcraft/Moog. If using economy parts each side (control arm and lower ball joint) is somewhere $80 (or less) so that's $160 for both plus alignment. Motorcraft/Moog will cost $150 each side, so that's $300 already plus...

feel the tubes below the chassis, one should be warm and the other cold. If it's not then either the rear evaporator is clogged or the expansion valve. ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

10mm https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=204209476313878&set=a.204265239641635.48139.110528882348605&type=3&theater ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

that's the sway bar end links; https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=276869739047851&set=a.276905402377618.61962.110528882348605&type=3&theater they are inexpensive to replace. Also looks like you have a leaking shock (it's wet with oil)...

it's possible but the main reason why you have that rotten egg smell is that your cats are being flooded with unburn fuel. So why are you having unburn fuel? needs a tune-up (spark plugs, coils) ? primary oxygen sensors not functioning well? is there a misfire that doesn't trigger a code yet...

I'd wait until the engine throws a code for CAT INEFFICIENCY, if it's just a rotten egg smell and doesn't seem to lose power it might be just a temporary hiccup. ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

it's a gamble, it could just be basic tune-up lacking on this truck. things like fuel filter, cleaning the maf, new plugs, etc. Since the battery was disconnected for a long time, it won't give out code if the catalytic is bad most of the time. It really depends on how much are you willing to...

yes, they could fail in the open position and it's working like as if there's no thermostat. http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/explorer_awd/v6-4.0l_vin_k_flex_fuel/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/cooling_system/thermostat_engine_cooling/component_information/specifications/page_3352/...

here ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

the expansion valve is only at the rear ac unit (for models with rear ac or aux heat/cool). the front ac uses an orifice tube. so which side is broken? front or rear? ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

lots of things to check; your front diff might be toast due to the leak the rack and pinion might be having problems, is there a whine sound when you turn the steering? transfer case might be bad on the front axle side, try disconnecting the front axle shaft from the transfer case and see if...

OD light on means that the transmission is on its way out. You might consider the cost of replacing the transmission to the purchase price. Check the rear diff for whine, rear wheel hubs, broken coil spring. Check if AC/Blower works. I wouldn't pay more than $1000 if you have any of those...

so what's the high and low pressure? ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

when it overheats, does the coolant from the reservoir bottle overflow? does the fan run during that time? or does the overheating stop (or cool down) when you set the temp to max heat? Not sure if your dealership knows how to bleed the cooling system or you just need to look for a shop...

Does your compressor runs when AC is turned on? Did you check your pressure readings using an AC manifold gauge? ----------------------------------------------------------- MY MOUNTY http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums

Enjoy the service manuals for free (or donate) Covers all Ford cars/trucks 1997 - up...

that requires a lot of searching, luckily BigRondo has the service manual loaded for you. here's a link that you could use too...

sorry I misunderstood the question, i thought it was the rear ac issue. you can check any fault code by running the self diagnostic test on the DATC. here's how; * press the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and release * then press the AUTO button within 2 seconds. the display will show a...

A bad blend door will make a noise at a certain point when adjusting the rear control. There's 2 doors actually, one is the air flow vent (foot and ceiling) and the temp blend door. Normally it's the temp blend door that's bad (only when making the noise), no vacuum hoses to check there. Have...