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Have you checked for codes? Then cleared them? Or disconnected the battery for 30 minutes? Also, maybe check the wires to the front sensors. Maybe the codes tell you which one has a problem.

Mine seems to be intermittent now. Any new info on this? Actuator? Latch? Something else? Advice on repair?

Shocked that you got the lens off. The shop that cloned my cluster tried and it started cracking immediately. They sent it to me and I tried and destroyed the lens. So brittle it was impossible to even pry loose one tab! The vehicle was 12 years garage kept.

All good now. The annoying chirp that has been around for too long to admit, is finally gone. Gates belt, tensioner and idler now and sounds like a new vehicle. Thanks for everyone's input. If the advertised numbers are correct, the Gates is appx 1/44" longer than the OEM MC. They matched up...

Great info, guys! Already ordered the Gates stuff from Rockauto. But, if it doesn't work... According to my research the Gates K080860 is 86.648" Dayco 5060860 is 86.680" Motorcraft JK6865B is...

I'll do that. Thanks. Also, I just ordered the Gates belt and tensioner to go with the new gates idler pulley I put on last month. I'll update if it solves the problem.

OK, thanks. Just to clarify, I am not getting silicon on the belt. I am using the red tube to spray behind the pulley. Still the belt though? No biggie either way, the belt is 13 years old w/ 83,000 miles. LOL I guess I should pop for a tensioner too!

2006 4.0L. If I spray a little silicon into where the pulley meets the block it stops making noise for 5 minutes. Noisier when cold. There is a little plastic bushing between the pulley and the bolt, which is the original piece. I am starting to suspect it is worn and allowing the pulley to...

I am wondering if there is any new information on this topic/problem. I have the exact same problems as the OP. My message center is backlit green, but no words. I had just recently reset the oil life indicator and this occurred next time it was driven. 2006 XLT 4x4 4.0L with 82,000 miles...

If the radiator is not leaking (look for white residue on the drivers side around the bottom), then I think it is irrelevant if it was replaced before. I doubt any dealer will do a reflash for free (unless it is a condition of purchase), though they may be able to determine if it was ever done...

Check your battery voltage, then start it up and check again. Probably 12.8v and goes to 13.8 when started. If the alternator were not charging the battery you would either hear a solenoid click or it might crank slowly and the lights might even be dim with all the accessories operating. Though...

Just did the plugs on my 06 4.0 at 70K miles. The passenger bank is accessible via the wheel well with the wheel removed. The drivers side from above (gap is .052 - .056). A little anti-seize on the threads make the new ones thread in much easier. a couple different size extensions and a...

Mine was doing it drvr side and when there was slack in the belt. Took a long time to find.

And the CEOs yacht!

Ford was NOT doing well when they owned those marques. They are doing much better now. The 3.5 Ecoboost is an awesome power plant. As is the 5L coyote. Both world class engines. My 06 Explorer has only had the radiator replaced after 8 years on the road. My 08 GT500 has never been back to...

You need to look for something that is common to all these lights, such as a ground or the signal that illuminates everything with the key on engine off. probably going to need the wiring schematic.

Before getting too deep into it, see if the rattle is coming from where the seat belt attaches near the side of the seat. I had to shim mine.

Thanks for the replies. I will check pressures again as suggested.

On a recent hot day I noticed the A/C in my 06 Explorer was not getting the job done without being on "MAX AC". I bought a can of AC Pro and checked low side pressure via the gauge and it was at 25. Given it was 80 degrees and 80% hunidity, per charts, the target LP pressure was approximately 40...

Looking at the diagram provided by ornery, Note that the solenoid (upper right quadrant of brake shift interlock circuit) requires three things to operate. It requires 12v from the run start relay in via pin "1". And it requires GRD from the park detect switch in via pin 6. And pin 8 requires a...

IDK about the 06, but the front diff on my 98 was a biotch! Stuck a suction gun tube in there and got maybe half! No way I was trying to pull the cover. The tranny can be serviced at home, but may not be worth it. You will likely have to remove the lines to do it. Pay the $100! I use a...

I would highly suspect the fuel pump. Ive had one go bad on my 03 Mach1 and one more on my 98 Explorer. You should hear it for a few seconds when you turn on the key. See if you have any pressure at the fuel rail port. Just press the stem in and use a rag to avoid spraying in your face!

Never mind guys. Further investigation reveals a dead battery. 6 years 3 months and 10 degree temps...whoddathunk? LOL Initially when I checked it seemed OK and started after only 15 minutes on the charger, but being so cold I did not check it thoroughly. Now I see it is at only 10v.

Yesterday my wife went to start the Ex and no crank at all. When I checked the battery it was fine and and I heard a clicking from what I assume is the shift interlock solenoid. It also did not start in neutral initially. After moving the shifter through the gears a few times and waiting a few...

With 56K miles on mine the only problem I have had is two radiators, the first one replaced under 3/36. The second one I put in about 16 months ago. I also have an 08 GT500 that has never had a single problem in 25K miles, despite being modded to 630 HP. My 10 SHO has had one trip to the dealer...