Search results

The trick on the PS pump is to remove the pulley, then the bolt is easy to get to. Should be able to get the "free" rental at the parts store. The pulley is easy to remove/replace. Of course an excuse to buy more tools is also a good thing. ;)

The symbol is your direction, in this case north. The cal may indicate that the compass may need to be calibrated.

When I changed the plugs and coils on my 05 it was pretty straight forward. Just make sure you have the plug socket tightly attached to the extension. Edit: Your profile shows you have the 5.4L in your truck, is this a replacement or a typo? My experience is on the factory 4.6L.

Smack the back of the tie rod to try and reseat the tapered shaft, or try to figure how to clamp it to force it forward. Other idea is to get a nut splitter if it will fit.

Looks to me like a binding problem. I would have them check the brakes and e-brake also. Have you tried turning the tire by hand to see what it feels like?

Don't assume anything is OK just because you had it worked on. Move the tire that is bouncing to another location and see if there is a change. Those weights they put on can fall off. If the tire is bouncing there is a problem with the rotating assembly, (tire out of round, out of balance, bent...

You got me there, I have had no problems with mine. It should be a black globe or sausage under the hood. I have seen some pictures with it under the passenger side front corner. I can look at mine tonight. Just follow the Vac lines to see if there is a crack, the check valve may be built into...

Sounds like your vacuum reservoir and/or check valve are not working correctly. When you accelerate you lose vacuum in the manifold and the reservoir keeps the doors from moving. The check valve keeps the vacuum from bleeding back into the manifold.

Trying to get reimbursed for this would probably be as successful as reimbursement for the rear panel crack that is much more common. It's a 13 year old truck that's a decade out of warranty. Be glad it was an easy fix and move on.

My 05 with 4.6 and tow package has the 3.73.

This is interesting to see as my console fell off last week because the last 2 tabs broke. The front had been drooping for quite a while. My repair was to bend some strips of metal into a T, put a slice into the bracket with a dremel tool, and feed the metal T through the slots and epoxy to the...

BTW It's the condenser in front of the radiator and the evaporator is behind the dash. Are you using your A/C system while climbing the hill? This will add heat into the air going into the radiator and increase your chances of overheating.

Since your truck is not a Gen3 the suspension is completely different, and the resulting issues with a suspension lift are not the same.

Does the starter sound like it's doing anything? Can you turn the engine with a socket on the front crank bolt? Disconnect the starter from the bellhousing and have someone do the key while you hold the starter to see if it spins. (Hold tight, they have a lot of torque.)

The whining is usually a rear diff issue (I've had it for about 180K). The thump/jolt could be anything in the drive train. I had something similar when the parking brake shoes debonded and were causing problems with jolting.

Remove the front driveshaft and see if the sound is still there, could be a u-joint in the front shaft going bad.

It does not sound like a fuel problem so I don't think a carburetor would have helped. Even though the COP's work on a tester doesn't mean they are firing when connected to the truck. With the noise that occurred before it died I would think timing chains. You should see evidence of that when...

Take a drill bit the diameter of the head of the screw and drill until the head of the screw is gone, then you can try to remove the leftover screw shaft.

Drill off the head of the screw.

Parking brake may have the lining de-bonded from the shoe. Mine made weird intermittent noises when that happened. Remove the rear rotors to check.

Did you have the parking brake on? It may have rusted the cable or the shoes are stuck and is not releasing.

The connector looks to be in the area where the trailer brake controller plugs into. Pull your shift motor and see if it is rotating when you put it into low range.

My 4.6L has 230K on it and runs like a champ. I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners at 210K.

It's always best to give year and engine size. I will assume it's a 4.0L as the tensioners on the 4.6L are inside the timing cover. Answer: Your timing chain guides are shot. You need to do a chain and guide replacement. Many threads here on what that entails.

Try cleaning the throttle body, it can get sticky and cause abrupt acceleration issues.