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Great news, changed number 2 injector and had a nice difference but still had a miss, so we checked the wire and found a hole in the boot that was shorting out, so the injector was bad but also had a bad wire on the same cylinder, just wanted to say thanx to all who had helped, greatly...

SOHC it dont make sense why our stores would stock the California injectors and not the regular ones though

i need to get it fixed and cant wait on shipping, im going to the local junkyard and see if i can get any, wander why they would stock the wrong ones here?

On all the auto parts stores here in Ohio they have an ijector listed for about 63.00 which they have to order, but they have one is stock for 38.00 with California emissions, my question is can I get just one of the 38.00 ones and run it or do I have to get all 6 of them? It doesnt make sense...

ok, well now IM getting a misfire on cylinder #2, we did a compression test and it was around 150lbs. We took the injector out and got a 9 volt battery to try it, well when you first touch it you can hear it click, then I removed the wire and hit it again and it did nothing, waited about 5...

P1000 was the code

Bought a code reader/scanner and ran a test with engine running and it wont coays ecmmplete aall the test, it says ecm and thats it

i looked online at advance autos website at injectors, they have one listed for 38.00 for California emissions and one for 68.00 without california emissions, what is the difference in these?

where you get the injectors reconditioned? What kind of place does this?

Thanx guys, I did clean the MAF sensor about 2 weeks ago when I did the double platinum plug install, I had the guy remove the fuel filter last night and check it(just put on 3 days ago before I knew tank was rusted) He cleaned it out some and went for another ride and said it didnt didnt...

well got the new fuel pump, tank and strainer on and still the same thing. I believe its something to do with my fuel since it isnt throwing any codes, maybe a partially clogged injector, fuel damper or something like that? Would a bad computer throw a code? Would a faulty EGR valve cause any of...

mine is the returnless system, i already changed the filter, it was really dirty, it seems like everything on the explorer is the original parts, the plugs and wires were the original ones from the factory. lol So is reving the engine up in park different from being under load? The tank was...

is 65lbs idiling and about 60lbs good? Also found out the top of my tank was all rusted, the neck broke off it, and the inside had alot of rust also

I checked my pressure and it is running at 64 at idle and pretty much constant up to a higher rpm then in which it goes towards 60lbs it seems like it isnt getting enough fuel to go higher speeds, going thru town for the most part it is ok except going uphill, then i tried to go 55 and it cuts...

i am having the exact same issue on my 99, did you ever figure yours out? Same 2 cylinder miss fire

changed the fuel filter, new plugs(APP103) new wires(autolite professional) did a fuel pressure check(64lbs at idle and while reving up) It seems to miss or cut out while driving, usually around 30 to 45 mph, no codes showing up. plugs are gapped at 54-55, could the TPS be going bad and not...

thanx for the info, I got it last night, I read of another users trick, using a 1/2 inch wrench on one side of the fitting and the tool and squeezing them together with a set of visegrips to get the tool all the way in and it worked really good. It was really in need of a new one, the gas inside...

I been trying change my filter and cant get the duck bill clamps off, I went to harbor frieght and bought the aluminum multicolored set, and also the plastic round set, neither will get them off, is there a way to cut off the connectors and use barbed couplings to add fuel line and then clamp it...

my 99 explorer, 4.0 SOHC developed a stumble, it will stumble if you give it alot of gas to get on to the highway, but if you ease into it then it seems ok, and also has a rough idle at a stop light, so I guess you would say it does it under load. When it first did it, I had codes for a misfire...

it comes on when I start it, then after about 15 or 20 seconds it goes out, but only in damp conditions,

so should I reset the codes after installing new plugs to clear the computer? this all happened on a rainy day, and alot of times when its raining and Im driving the battery light will come on, but only when its raining out and cant figure that out

oh, I used autolite in mine, I drive about 600 miles a week, and the plugs would have around 12000 miles on them if I figured correctly. the plugs on cylinders were gapped at 45 instead of 55, but we gapped them before we installed them at 55, i was wrong on the miles, guessin they was installed...

ok, I was looking at the double platinum plugs, think they run about 4.50 each, has there been alot of issues with the AP103 plugs, I mean, others have trouble with them as well that you would know of? I want to say thank you for the help you have given me, you have been very helpful.

*UPDATE* Well I found out that plugs in the 2 and 4 cylinders werent gapped right, although we gapped them when we installed them a few months ago. What would cause this? I believe i am running autolite platinum plugs, the guy working on it for me said it still shakes a little so the other 4 may...

I also had a vacum leak in the evaporative system as well, but it has been there for a long time and I narrowed it down to the gas cap(code says small leak in evap system)