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I forget about the trans. Thanks, I also forget about heater cores and all the fun stuff.

It's out there for $1250, Phoenix car no rust, don't know mileage yet. Is this worth the fix? Or a new motor? Is a 4.0, of course.

A/C leaks Bessie, be sure to pull the compressor pulley to check for a hub leak. Often the dye won't be visible.

TEXAN'S ride is just broke in Mine went 242k or so on the original transmission. At 316k it was rolled by my wife. not a scratch on her. And not her fault.

You're gonna want to have the toe-in set properly unless you're actually damned good at it. Do both sides, schedule it for a Saturday morning when your closest shop is doing alignment specials, no prob. I changed one inner end, and the other one was a few thousand miles away from failure. But...

My '00 XLT has nice leather on the wheel, but the 12 o'clock is loose and twists. I like this particular leather wrap, so I'm thinking of pulling it off and building up the cushion with something, maybe bat tape or even innertube (ack?!?!) Has anyone done this, am I begging for a wasted...

The Gen2s really seem to last. I betcha get a new tie rod end at the alignment, you might wanna check them first and seave yurself some dough. Same color as my '95, stipe and all. I really like that color. I always wanted the boards. I bought my '95 at 168K or so and ran it to 318K...

As the temperature drops your battery loses power, specifically CCA. You probably have a bad battery.

Also suspect the lock actuator. I avoided replacing mine.

My 2000 XLT driver seat won't move front to back, not will the front tilt work. I got it out and look at the mechanism. Sadly, the motor frame is warped, which is causing the flexible coupling to one of the screws for front-back motion to disengage from the motor shaft, and it is only driving...

Hmmm.. Time to check belts and hoses. I can't think of an obvious reason the cam sync would cause that unless opening the oil filler would change idle speed. Lots of other things to check then.

My '95 went 318k, got a tranny rebuild at 238K (I think) and little things, engine was as quiet as a mouse. Got rolled in the desert... If you keep after it, no reason you shouldn't be sending us pics of it a 300000.

Among other things, have a shop check the EPC solenoid. Check the fluid level when hot. And tell us if this is a V8 or the 6. The 4.0 transmissons are notorious for short lives. At 238K on the original tranny, I got mine flushed, biut mistake. Soon it had harsh shifts, slow 2-3 and 3-2...

I drove a '95 from 168k to 318k. If I found a '98 without major trouble I'd buy it. Get some exhaust at a JY...:) If this 4.0 is the pushrod, even better. The SOHC doesn't get high marks for longevity, though the old 4.0 is really tough. Change the oil at 3K and don't let them flush it.

I just drove a '95 to 318K before it was rolled. Among the highlights: - Tranny got a rebuild at around 230K, was original until then. - Had the dreaded cam sync squeak for at least 150,000 miles. I bet it squeaked after the accident too. The Dorman replacements are considered junk, but...

Ok, so I bought this a little over a week ago, '00 V8 XLT, 93K, leather/sunroof/nothng else special. I have a few questions and observations, and you late-model Gen2 owners could help me, since i came from a '95... - Prev owner said the liftgate leaked. Yep, the hinges were loose (!) and...

Before you just change parts, consider getting a test lamp or making one and decoding the OBDI flashes. Read up here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=147734 Which includes good links to Ford sites. Worked for me.

Your '95 has OBDI, which most shops will not scan, it requires a test light and to count flashes. Suspect the DPFE or EGR valve. If the DPFE (which signals how the EGR is working) is bad, it will affect performance slightly, causing some surging at highway speed. If it;s the EGR valve, it...

Your ziptie fix should last for years. Mine did.

Yup, mine now is over 316K, and the new problem is stumbling and stalling occaisonally after a hot start. I suspect it's more with the DPFE I've avoided replacing. Just took off the Sumitomo ATs, they wore every other block on the inside rows a full 1/4" deeper than the others. Shop said it...

An update, my '95 XLT 4x4 is now at 314K, got the noisiest tires I've ever had on it and hate my tire store now. The squeaky tailgate I finally fixed by adjusting the LOOSE latch bolts. Now I hear a new, annoying rattle/squeak at 42-50MPH, from under the hood I think, sounds like a cross...

I've tried the PBBlaster and everything else, even Coca-Cola. One front and one rear are just rusted in and hopeless. Calipers aren't that expensive, it's the inevitable bleed/flush that worries me. And the caliper piston boots on the fronts aren't in good shape, etc., they are old. I'm...

I'm really due to replace the front calipers, will do the rears as well, but a question. My Ex has 310k on it, and the brake fluid in the reservoir is not clean - dark, had filmy stuff in it, last pad change I siphoned it nearly dry and filled new, but the new is of course discolored. Bleeder...

Well, since mine is a '95, this is not a V8.

Radiator removal is pretty easy, almost obvious. The manuals are helpful. be sure to get the right replacement, I could not get the right one from Autozone, they gave me one with the wrong transmission cooler fittings. A Valeo part from a local radiator.com (sp?) shop was both cheaper and...