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:us: The Mustang intake has slightly larger runners and will shift the torque a little in the rpm band and the stock ( Mustang ) throttlebody has right at about the same area as a Zabtek overbored throttlebody. I would not change the intake unless maybe a gear change has been done. I have...

definitely a frequency harmony thing. Most likely in the exhaust itself. How many miles on truck? I have just over 65,000 and have a catalytic converter beginning to rattle just off idle ( I do have cams and frequencies are a bit different/stronger, idles at 800rpm ). Also on the passenger...

I have an intake manifold and have been studying the differences. I don't think you will "gain" any dramatic amounts of horsepower. You may gain 10-15hp tops and all in the upper end. You would most likely lose some lower to mid range torque also. Also the inlet of the throttlebody is now...

2wd or 4wd? The bearing and hub on these are a cartridge sealed single piece unit. There are three bolts running from the spindle into the back of the assembly. Remove the nuts and bolts and it should come apart pretty easily. If it is a 4wd then you need to get a puller for IRS/CV axles...

I do not belong to any image storage sites, so posting probably won't happen. However, there are a few on The Sport Trac site in my library. :us:

The half shaft will not hit the frame. It doesn't have anywhere near the amount of movement it at the frame point compared to wheel movement. It is a geometry thing. I once measured the ratio but do not have it anymore. I figured it all out when I was engineering the spring and damper...

Yes, but, there are a couple of things different of course. The running boards are the same on all three models. The difference is the end molding pieces for the Adrenalin. They create more of an aerodynamic shaped wheel spat and close up the gap to the body. The front bumper cover will go...

Sounds to me like it could be a chain tensioner. Can you tell if it is coming from behind the timing cover? What weight of oil are you running? :us:

I have and built a 14" rotor and caliper upgrade on my truck for the front. It uses Brembo calipers, but, doesn't clear stock 18" or Adrenalin wheels. I am however back to work and should have an alternative design by the end of the summer. It will be 14" rotor also. I am also looking in to...

Try to finish my tubular exhaust manifold conversion... Finish rear brake conversion... Engine a better brake conversion that fits under the stock Adrenalin wheel...:us:

Call me old fashioned if you will. But, I still believe in being low key. I also believe that keeping my links/connections low to the internet can help save me from others. The more you drive the better chance of having an accident kind of mentality. To each his own...:us:

Yes I still have them.

Have you studied the battery itself. Does it look like it is a bit ballooned or anything. It could be an over charging situation. The stator in the voltage regulator could be sticking periodically and overcharging the battery. :us:

Is this a bit of a howling kind of sound? Has it happened at other than full to hard acceleration? It could be the filter and inlet restriction removal. You are most likely hearing the intake track air flow. The little horn object you removed is used to help quiet down the air flow noise...

As a note and reference to those crafty people out there. A mixture of transmission fluid and acetone is the best penetrating fluid you can get. Mix it about 50/50 and it will penetrate frozen and rusted bolts. The trans fluid has a high amount of detergents in it and can really clean stuff...

The problem is most people who have these vehicles don't really do much for modifications or want to spend much money on what they actually do. I looked high and low for an A pillar pod set up for my gauges. I actually decided to take a Dodge truck dash mounted pod from Autometer and modified...

On my 2007 Trac I opened the outlet side of the cats to 2 1/2". I then fabbed up the tubing to a Magnaflow "Y" ( 2 1/2" in 3" out ). I replaced the stock resonator and factory muffler ( 2 3/4" dia. tubing ). The tubing from the "Y" all the way it is 3". I used a Magnaflow large case muffler...

Bilstein does not actually make a bolt on damper for our trucks. Rancho has a shock that fits and I think a slight lift available too. I do have bilsteins though. They were built for a different application and I had them changed to valve setting to my specs. I then built my own spring seats...

My truck has always had a very slight gear mesh kind of wine. Just like a transmission pump when the fluid is too low. It was very slight at idle when I got it with 30k on it. It has since gotten a bit louder, I am now at 55k. I know the trans has plenty of fluid. I have serviced it, even...

I used a 40 amp Ford relay to trigger the high/low speed via the A/C compressor. Ford uses 40 amp relays for the fans on the Mustang. But, I have heard that as fans wear in some they can pull a high amount of current when starting up. So, I used Tyco automotive ( 12V ) high amp ( 75 amp )...

The foam is purely for NVH use. It is supposed to help deaden or soak up noises from the engine and intake track. I had my intake modifying my IMRC plates and just removed it. If I remember correctly it is attached to a couple of molded in columns and has those press on nuts holding it in...

A 285/60/18 has a running diameter of 31.5" as opposed to the original designed diameter of 30". That is about a 5% change in gearing and multiplication of the torque. You have two things working against you, the taller gearing and mostly the added weight. About the only thing you can do is...

Kind of like you said, " To good to be true". I question the quality of those coils. I have found that on a stock to mildly modified engine the Motorcraft replacement plugs have performed the best for me. I get the smoothest running and most mileage out of them... My coils started failing on...

Your welcome... :us:

The driveline on most of the modern vehicles ( Ford too ) are designed as a non serviceable throw away part. You may want to consider a single piece driveline made by a local shop. It would most likely cost about half of a new one from Ford. You could even have an aluminum one made. It would...