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Does the 4x4 button and dash light go out when you press the button?

You need to first use the 4x4 Troubleshooting Guide to help determine what's wrong. The hubs come into play ONLY after the T-case has been successfully shifted into 4x4 (4x4 will be illuminated in the dash) https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/4x4-troubleshooting-guide.202166/

I would suggest you start with the 4x4 troubleshooting guide. https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/4x4-troubleshooting-guide.202166/

Glad the thread was helpful. Good Idea about the lithium grease 👍

I would poke a hole where the Yellow arrow is pointing to run low current wires into the cabin. I assume you want to run the low voltage Trigger wire (#85) from the Fog relay mounted near the battery.

I lucked out and found one in a bone yard near me. Not too many around these days.

Fuses either work or they are blown and don't. As such there is no need to replace a working fuse with another working fuse.

Junkyard or I would heat up PVC pipe and mold into shape.

Damn... that ABS Hydraulic unit is a mess. I didn't think it could rust so badly.

That plastic stop on the gear selector was toast.

Very Nice. One step at a time is the way to go.

Sorry to hear that.. It is always sad to see one you've had for a long time go..

I agree with @JustinGibson. 3.27 with an automatic and 33s are barely okay on flat ground. They will be terrible going up hills and doing any kind of off-roading. When I got my 33s I had 3.27's for a week or so before I could re-gear to 4.10s. With an automatic transmission I had zero power...

Very clean survivor you have there.. :)

The link to the 4x4 trouble shooting guide on Post #6 has lots of information and pictures of the various components and locations. Is this what you are looking for?

You don't need any lift to run 31" tires.

The geared sensor on the left can simply be tapped out from the back side.

As the others have already mentioned you can't remove the outer part of the HUB as it is integral to it's function. As @imp indicated you can either send the wheels back or have them machined so they will fit.

I've heard about the come along fix before but have never tried it. I ended up removing the Radius Arm frame brackets and going that route.

The torque multiplication when in 4x4 LOW range can easily overpower worn Auto Hubs and make the stub axle shaft slip/grind inside them. BTW the HUBS are universal and can be installed on either side. When you are reversing are you backing up straight or are you making a turn? The sharper the...

Correct.. I would remove the shift motor on the transfer case to see if the plastic stop is shredded. Use the info in the 4x4 troubleshooting guide to easily re-sync the motor otherwise you could spend all day trying to get it aligned in 2H.

Did you check for power and ground? On a 20yr old vehicle it wouldn't take much to have a bad ground.

I would remove the air inlet tube located directly behind the bumper to prevent you from sucking water into the engine and potentially hydrolocking your motor. I personally just installed a KKM cone filter. Here is a video of the lower intake assembly.

Although you don't need to remove the ABS protector to remove the sensor it does make it easier. A 6mm 12pt bolt holds the ABS sensor protector in place. This bolt is often mangled and hard to remove. You can simple use a drill bit and dremel grinding wheel from the in board side and remove...

The ABS sensor is only held in with that single bolt you have already removed. Over time the aluminum sensor housing can get stuck in the knuckle due to rust and oxidation. I would typically removed the ABS sensor protector to give it more room, but it's bolt appears striped (they often are)...