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Make sure your tools are the right size and all the way on before you try to break something loose. I don't know about the leak I can't tell where it is comming from by the picture. Is it comming from where the axle goes into the diff?

Look up the PIE device.

See if you can get it to throw a code by keeping it at 1000rpms. If you can't, have you checked your IAC valve outputs?

I just hope not to see any fuel or oil fouling in the future.

I replaced the plug in cly # 6. Idle feels rock solid at this time. We will see if it stays that way.

Nice thread, I'll test and post results

You mean coil pack? I was thinking about getting the screaming demon coil pack. What do I test the cylender for?

I pulled Cyl 6 plug. It was black. I cleaned it up and put it back in. I put two cans of sea foam thru the brake booster. It ran great for a day, now it's back to the same crap. So it must have something to do with Cyl 6. What do I do now? I'm stuck guys.

Update: it threw a code-cylinder 6 misfire.

4.0, I seafoamed my ex a week ago. Ever since I have had issues. At idle rpms drop off and come right back sparatically. Under load and while driving, I feel like I am being rocked back and forth. Put it in N and it goes away. it feels like a misfire but I have no CEL on. What the heck did...

Less than that

Yep, it is random

03 ford explorer 4.0 When idling under load in Drive, every once in a while the rpms drop quickly and then come right back to normal. What could be the cause? Is it a misfire? No codes.

Replace your t stat before you overheat your engine....

Check to make sure all of your tires are the same size. Have the computer checked by a genisis Remove the signal wire to the t-case (brown wire mod) and see if this stops the binding. The idea is to diagnose the specific part etc. In that order, post your results

790-870 rpm

Change your coolant temp sensor and replace the thermostat while you are in there. Pay special attention to how you took it apart so that you can reinstall the new parts correctly. Be careful with the faceplate and mounting, do not scower or divit these areas to avoid a leak. Do not...

Sea foam may clean the o2 sensors. Why not try injecting it into the brake booster line? See instructions on can for procedure. The brake booster line is connected to the master cylinder on the driver side firewall. Be careful removing the line. Make sure to reinstall properly and test...

Along with taking your foot out of it, start with the fuel filter. Check your tire pressures! You should consider forgetting the premium fuel... Use regular octane. Buy a can of seafoam and read the directions. It's good stuff. Check and replace that air filter! Don't just blow it out. Do an...

Gear shift in park, pop your hood, grab front of frame and rock your truck forward and back. While you do this, watch the engine. Is the engine rocking with the truck as you move it?

Red hot- Literally?.. Replace your master cylinder? That is a lot of truck to stop, have you checked to see if the front brakes are operating properly? Set e-brake- lift up the front, have someone hold the brakes and check the front? Did you bleed the brakes properly?

Take your foot out of it.

Rev it up in park? No rattle - not the cat

Get the pie device

Check your rear diff fluid first, look for level and quality. Also, metal shavings.