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What is the problem? My son had a #6 miss fire. Changed plugs, wires, coil pack, and swapped fuel injectors. Still no fix. Used some AMSOIL engine foam. 1 can and cleared his code. If I'd did not see it I would not believe it.

Check fuses. Could have blown one when wires were cut.

I would stick with fiberglass. Rough up repair area, use fiberglass sheets. Maybe fiberglass a wood support across cover for extra support.

Your thermostat could be bad. Also.use the correct one. Modern engines are designed to run hotter. If you use a cooler thermostat, you engine will run rich. Don't ask how I know.

You might be able to change out the A/C clutch. I did one on an older Ford LTD back in the day. And you don't have to worry about the freon.

You get what you pay for. A basic reader at Harbor Freight us cheap. But only reads codes. I have an orange one. Can't remember the brand, used buy several mechanics. Gives me a few options for testing and seeing what is going on. See what brands mechanic's are using and get one of them. I...

Check hoses for condition and leaks. O rings should be changed if they are used. Change fluid to full synthetic.

Place a small piece of electricity tape over it. Hide or cover it.

Cover the suspect area in copper screen and ground to chassis. This might prevent the wireless signal from getting through. Also check grounds on the system. A missing ground might cause it. You need to send the wireless signal to ground.

Tell them it your turbo spooling up if it rattles. And or. A new hybrid gas/diesel engine.

Probably the turn signal multi function switch. Tilt wheel up and down and see if that helps.

Outside door handle return spring broke or missing. Handle must be closed for lock to work properly. There is a thread on the board for the door spring repair.

Tie in a direct reading Guage at he manifold with a t fitting. That should verify pump or electronic.

Maybe some kind of power controller. I would just cover it and leave it alone. I have a remote start on mine under the dash from a previous owner. No remote. Tided into a few relays. Truck runs good. I just secured the wires and relays and drive. Not worth messing something up if it works.

Does it look like from the factory, or after market? Maybe a test point?

Default is OD on or engaged when needed. Pushing the OD button removes the default and the transmission will not shift into OD. I believe it will also change something in the valve body too.

Black RTV. Use a turkey injector for deep frying. Cut end of needle off. Fill with RTV Sealant. Apply into channel. Assemble.

Yes. The kit was green O-rings.

Got a 2001 sport with a 4.0. 202000 miles on it. Transmission went out at 180000. I have the chain noise at start up. I just take it easy until it warms up. Hoping to get 250000 out of the engine. Cheaper to keep her then a new vehicle.

Check Harbor Freight. They have several O-ring kits. Found a set for my son's A/C swap. No leaks. We just matched up what we thought would work. Use some petroleum jelly when installing O-rings.

There is an air blend door actuator under the dash. Blends cold and warm air. It could be stuck or not working. Someone else should chime in. Dave

Try a clamp on amp meter. See if you have any drain reading. Start pulling fuses and see if it stops No amp meter, try a multi-meter in line with the negative post. Just don't try to start up it with the meter hooked up.

On my wife's Tribute. I removed the window only and the track stayed in place. Has a broken plastic guide on the track. Used real small screws and nuts to repair. Installed window. Works like new. Did not have to remove headliner.

My transmission went out. No notice, pink fluid. Lost reverse and 1st. The overdrive shafts and everything on it was fused together. $2,000 for rebuild.

Insert key into door lock. Turn until door lock lifts. Lift handle. Open door. Just could not help myself.