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once you start on it everything is relatively straight forward. hardest part is reaching the speedometer cable, that thing is a *******. i suggest making friends with someone who has small hands/wrists. while you have the cluster out its a good time to change any burnt out light bulbs.

had the same problem. removing it and cleaning the contacts solved the problem.

i also had to hack together a new rag joint

did you use the correct fan clutch? automatic transmission and A/C equipped vehicles use an extra beefy one.

mine had the 68 MPH death wobble. i replaced the two outer TREs and the drivers side balljoints(needed to be done to pass inspection anyway) and took it to a good alignment shop and the problem went away.

i'm pretty sure the ECU for the 94 will expect a post-cat O2 sensor and an EGR valve.

my 92 dosen't. dome light will stay on until the batteries dead(trust me on this). to shut it off just put the palm of your hand against the latch closest to you and push, it will click in easily. remember to twist the handle before you shut it though. failure to twist the handle won't break...

worse case scenerio couldn't you just hack it up/burn it?

it may be time for a new fan clutch with that many miles. i didn't realize how bad mine was until i replaced it.

maybe a cat or something was hanging out under your truck and got stuck there.

i just did mine last week. my self adjustors were shot so i couldn't retract shoes to get the drum off. what i learned: 1) if you take a chisel to the holding retaining pins 'head' behind the backing plate you can snap them easily, pull the drums halfway off with the shoes stuck in the drum and...

no. they were standard with 93+. they were installed by the dealer in 91 and 92 if you brought it in and complained of poor A/C performance. they have there own TSB

thats how i did it

the fan/VC just unscrew with a big wrench. theres a special tool to keep the enginge from turning but i didn't need it for removal, just installation. if you have a manual transmission you could probably just leave it gear.

if your not losing fluid then its your master cylinder. if the vacuum booster was leaking vacuum the pedal would be getting harder, not softer.

can someone explain why toe is so difficult to adjust? i've never seen an alignment done but the shanks on the TREs seem more than long enough to set wherever.

if your talking about the rag joint mine was torn as well. they have them in the 'HELP!' section of most auto parts stores. they don't fit right but with a little creativity with an angle grinder and drill you can make them work.

4 bolts stay in and you use the big wrench with a breaker bar on those to keep the engine from turning, then you use the smaller one(really just a big wrench) to unscrew the fan clutch.

pull off that black plastic tube that goes from the MAF to the throttle body and check it for cracks at the flexible parts. electrical tape works goof for sealing it up. if the engines sucking in to much unmetered air the MAF will read low.

91-92 ---95 AMP 93-94-- 95 AMP standard, 130 with Limited package.

i also got gray but if i did it again i would repaint them anyway, mine are starting to rust.

aka rust club?

thanks for the help, i got it out with a 12mm "bolt out" thingy. after that the knuckle came out pretty easily with a pickle fork and a BFH.

untouched pinchbolt to show what they looked like before i started. note completly disintigrated brake dust shield, most of spindle seat is gone, and had to replace spindle studs. stripped spindle. i had to use an angle grinder to get the axle/ujoint out, there was so much rust on the bearing...

the head didn't so much round off as the outside edges disintegrated. my pinch bolt must not have been the factory one if i'm suppose to be able to use vice grips on it. on mine there is no head sticking out from the adjustor, its completly recessed into it.