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there was a post in the third gen forum for front coilovers by ADS suspension that took out the spacer but they were at a premium

just ordered one will provide pics/info on installation

WOW.. veery impressed, i had a Thunderbird m90 on a v6 a while back that was intercooled.. it looks like you had the ports to intercool it.. if so where did you mount the front heat exchanger?? when i mounted my last setup the airbag sensor was in the way on the front member.. this being my...

parrot made a clamp on unit that would interface with a module you plugged into your cars radio.... that was years ago so i dont know if anything current has come out

on my last ex i had a 3 in body btf spacers and UCA and rancho quicklifts running 34.5 s .... they were great.... until you hit a bump... i cannot tell you how many rear cv axles i replaced with that setup not to mention the ride was so rough

no other models fit the explorers. what i did was get a set of black housings and retrofit projectors which was very easy.. albeit slightly costly .. 150 ish for the new housings and 250 in change for the projector lenses but very easy and well worth the money. especially because no one has the...

BTF fabrication makes uniball upper control arms and they are the best option

on my 03 i drilled and tapped the oem hitch bar and put 4 inch pods on adjustable braces... wish i had pictures but that was almost 5 years ago... they worked like a charm tough

would anyone happen to have the pinout for the EGR connector for an 04 V6 drive by wire?

i threw an m90 on my 4.0 but my advice would be to learn your engine first

where are you purchasing the device? the cheap ones do not work, the ones made by OBDlink work excellently

spin the top hat on the strut

i have also been wondering this, fearce offroad is no help as i have contacted them about measurements and got nothing more than a "buy it and see" response... just have to find someone with a ranger and trade bumpers i guess

for the front your going to want to go with a helical LSD like a torsen or eaton helical LSD. **DO NOT** get a limited slip with clutch packs.

285/70/r17

blake look for a 4.0 v6 ranger motor, they are worlds cheaper. you just have to keep your original intake and maybe your accessories

im running into the same problem more or less, but my big problem is that the cv axles hit the bottoms of the frame hoops in the rear. while a limit strap is required im looking into how and where to notch and reinforce the frame where the axles pass through any suggestions?

havis makes two styles, a full console and one that fits in the front tray of the oem console

if production is too much of a cost maybe just the cut files? i know its hit and miss with some people, i dont want to discount your work at all. very nice job by the way, would love one of my own

you'll have to buy a tuner, such as an SCT x4 and do it yourself. its not hard to do you just have to go through the tuner setup and it will ask you for gear ratios and tire revs/mile

it will, your speedo will be off by a bout a mile or two plug your tire sizes in and it will give you all the information on the differences you need https://tiresize.com/comparison/

Led ambient lighting is relatively a low draw item, you could easily wire it to a 12 volt constant like your cigarette lighter or radio circuit. as for having it come on with your headlights your best bet is to just tap into the headlight harness and install a relay so your ambient lighting is...

well i found the short term solution for me... replacing a half shaft and devoting all of my time and resources to regearing.. has anybody else had this problem?????

how are your axles? my drivers side rear half shaft was shot, causing constant banging into park and drive. not sure if it helps but just a suggestion

look on the door sill, there should be a sticker there identifying everything you need to know