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That's how I've always set them too. Then I've always checked em and adjusted from time to time. But by adjusting through the slot at the bottom of the backing plate. I've never known about the adjusters being "auto" or that you could set em up doing the back up deal. Good break down on how...

This is rad info. Appreciated man.

Funny you suggest that as I just talked to my parts guy and he said he could find a sleeve on each side of the size I need but not the right size.

How's the battle of north going man? Haven't heard from you back yet....

That makes sense. Good breakdown. Thanks. I always do the anti seize thing side I have had the exploder. When no first got it the guy I bought it from drive it to me for me to view...with one hanging up caliper that had pads down to the show backing and more than a few grooves in the rotors. The...

Thanks. I figured as much but thought id ask. I'm just blasting it and gravity is doing its thing so nothing is getting soaked.

Can anyone verify this? Never heard of it before... Pulled from a how to re and re drum bake shoes on a 92 explorer: 8. You do not need any special tool to adjust the brakes. When you put the new shoes on, move the adjusters all the way in, so that the brake shoes are as close together as they...

Questions: 1) brake cleaner...can it wreck an axle seal / wheel bearing seal? (outer axle seal) B) right hand side (passenger) rear brake shoes. Larger (longer) shoe is the rear shoe and smaller (shorter) shoe is the forward shoe. Correct?

I did not. Which seems really stupid now that I think about it. Every seal I've ever replaced gets a gob of something smeared on it. Why shouldn't this one. Stupid of me. The axle itself was fairly ugly but I didn't think ugly enough to be letting gear oil past a new seal. This stuff is made to...

So. Update and a question. The leaking seal deffo caused the overheating brake issue. Brakes ran even temps after I replaced that seal. But.....brand new seal is already leaking again. Which of course has gotten on the shoes and is overheating again due to f***ing swollen brake shoe again...

Always count on it being the worst and then its all uphill from there. Either you're stoked cause you were right or stoked cause you are wrong and it's not as bad as you thought! Happy to help mate. Cheers.

Youkk know it's the seal as you will have a very obvious mess of differential gear oil throughout your brake assembly. It smells like the devils bunghole too. Mine was a constantt rubbing. And it was only the rear shoe as when you're driving you mostly Dr forward so when the gear oil leak out...

Welcome to the struggle. First question. You have disc or drums on the rear?

No doubt. If I ain't fixing the exploder I'm fxing something else. Just glad I got it done before the 40+mm that has happened each day since. Even my undercover area has a river running through it now. Right where I was laying to pump the diff fluid in. Good timing!

Sorry all. I don't know if admin is waiting to label this solved. Got everything buttoned up after hunting down a cheap drill pump to fill the diff with. Finished late and was feeling Crap and ended up in bed for a few with f****ng strep throat. Haven't had a chance to take it for a rip yet...

I have a lot of experience with drilling and retapping. I'm not too worried about it. I have some very small spiral reverse flute bits that win almost every time. I blasted all the holes clean with brake cleaner and 150 psi air. There's nothing in them. It was a weak bolt straight up. Its all...

Ha! If I come across Murphy I'll get rid of him for all of us. Happy thanks back atcha!

It is what it is. I plan to run it for the winter if it doesn't leak. And no. All bolts looked good. Rust yes but no gouging or thin necks like you're talking. I was doing it by hand star pattern and not even on the final torque yet. I'm surprised it bailed out my self. My luck for saying do far...

I'm a permatex guy my self. I just used the grey unopened grey I had on hand for now. Cover is coming backnff sooner than later to do bearings and out some better condition axle shafts in. I'm just doing leaking seal this round to get through the winter slop here and hopefully solve this one...

Not trying to show off at all.. I started long ago with a Sears craftsman ratchet set and was akways hesitant to buy new tools because I didn't know what could do what. I just wanna share what used to make a job everyone including my self worries about...stripping the dreaded diff fill plug...

So much for being lucky this far.. I recommend buying new diff cover bolts now....looks like I'm going to be drilling and tapping next days off. Possibly sooner. Balls...

I am at the: "torque to spec diff cover bolts after they've sat for an hour for gasket to set up" stage now. I've been very lucky so fa. Pin retainer bolt was cake. No major carnage in playing inside the diff. And now I've had No problem getting the diff fill plug out. This is what I used for...

10 - 4 on the blue locktight. One other thing I was wondering about. On the c clip end of the the axle shaft I see an o ring. Does this sit on the wheel side of the c clip just to add a bit of friction to the c clip fitting in the groove? I have not heard any mention of it and only discovered...

My retaining pin bolt came out so easy I was shocked. It was literally just past hand tight. Makes me wonder what take th e previous owner did or didn't do. Although I most likely have found all his nonsense by now. I bought the thing not running and with brakes pads down to rivets on rotors...

I was going to ask about a lsd friction modifier. As for replacing anything else it's disgusting here downpour and getting cold. I am just doing the minimum now but havi g gone this far I'm comfortable now ripping things apart come spring for a serious servicing. If I'm replacing clutch packs...