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Tires out of round or not balanced correctly. Once I hat to return to a tire store four times after new tires were installed before they were balanced correctly. They had to recalibrate the machine and I had to tell them to take all the weights off and start over.

The adjusting mechanism in my 2004 seats is integrated into the seat frame. Right now I need to have some ort of working adjustment in my drivers seat so I can sell my Explorer and manual will be fine.. Try it, film it and let us know.

Motors and tracks can't be swapped out because everything is welded and riveted together. The whole seat needs to be replaced. I have done that once already and had to switch the covers. Now I need to do it again. I will be looking for an XLS or XL with manual driver's seat next time I go to...

Aftermarket alarm?

Try to find a bumper for an XLT. That is what the factory-style "kits" will fit. The wiring is probably there. Then change to a fog light-style light switch.

I had my upper radiator hose, "secured" by the original spring clamp, blow off the radiator bung. I replaced the original spring clamps with worm screw clamps.

"Blue Devil" is costly and worthless.

I just replaced all the hoses, o-rings and seals having to do with the thermostat housing. Had to improvise a bit on the hoses and one seal was particularly hard to find. Eliminated my leakage into the valley under the intake plenum.

Wiring needs to be rearranged to install the later tailgate in 2002-2005. There are threads here that explain what needs to be done.

Probably depends on the year, but yours looks like an XLS or XL and those didn't have wheel opening moldings. I had a 2002 XLT that had the side cladding and wheel moldings, my 2004 XLT does not have them.

That's not because the radiator tanks are plastic. It looks like someone got a little over zealous while removing the upper hose. Last summer my upper hose removed itself (!) on a hot day in August. It just popped off while my daughter was driving.

My 2004 4.0 with 206,000 miles has an intermittent, irregular ticking sound at idle. Sounds like tapping on the exhaust pipe. Not tick-tick-tick-tick but tick..tick......tick...tick. Is this related to the timing chains or something else?

From the seven seater you will need the backrest and cushion and all the hardware from the third row seat. Whatever is in the footwell for the third row too. Second row you will need the seat base and frame if not the whole seat. Third row seat belts.

Motorcraft/Motorcraft. Leave the "orange" filters on the shelf. From what I've seen they are the worst filters on the market.

The starter "solenoid" is on the starter. Did you have the starter tested at the store?

Have the new alt checked before you leave the store.

Check rubber vacuum hoses. If they are cracked or rotten they can leak, causing a lean condition.

Probably the blend door actuator.

I would suspect the radio before the wiring, unless someone has played with the harness. These radios don't last for very long.

Fresh air door broke and fell, blocking the blower motor intake. Do a search for "fresh air door" and you will find lots of help.

Doesn't sound like the typical power steering pump whine to me. BTW some plastic-body Ford PS pumps just whine from new.

Change the timing chain cassettes and guides while you have the engine out. Also the tensioners.

There are two screws per side that hold the taillight clusters in place.

If it's just the belt squeaking spray a little WD40 on the belt while the engine is running. WD40 is NOT a lubricant and won't make the belt slip. It will clean glaze off the belt and pulleys. I would check to see if the idler or tensioner pulley bearings are bad.