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Pulled the heads. Was really hoping for a couple blown hg but I'm not that lucky. Gonna get the heads mag tested. If good, it's the block. I've got another x that has a toasted auto, but the engine is good. Worst case I'll pull that engine out, clean it up, toss in a new oil pump and all...

Pulling this one out of the cobwebs. JD, I just got the oil in radiator. Not pink, chocolate. Overflow bottle 1/4 full of oil, no milkshake. In radiator, top layer milkshake, middle motor oil, bottom antifreeze. This all on the tip of my pinky finger. Radiator a tad low, but not...

Only thing I found was the MAF connector was almost out. Pushed it in, reset computer, and so far, no codes. Before I scrap the old x, I'm gonna strip a bunch of parts off it. Now I'm adding all the sensor plugs to that list. In the new x, almost every plug's retaining clip is broken off...

I think you're right. I too remember a connector down there. Thought about disconnecting it a few times over this whole job, but never did. I just find it odd that ALL those sensors would have issues all at the same time. Oh. I also had to put new ring terminals on the two 10ga ground wires...

We've got probably 1,000 miles on the ex since the head job and yesterday she did something kind weird. As we were pulling into the carport, the engine died. Granted, we were in gear and had the wheel cranked all the way to one side, and just come to a complete stop, but she's never died like...

I'll have to borrow the compression tester again, but I will do...now you've got me curious...

It runs!!! Holy crap, she runs!!! Right, even!!! All I can hear is the ever so faint injector ticks. It's such a beautiful thing to hear again!!! So the guy who ground the valves said that even had I got the pushrod right, it still wouldn't have run right. He said every exhaust valve...

I also "figured it'd be ok" and all probably would have been should I have installed the push rods before the intake. Makes sense for them to be there for the assembly-line aspect especially seeing as you're supposed to torque the heads and intake at same time. I found some exploded views of...

The Lucas oil I got is the one you put in your engine. It's what I've always used as an assembly lube. I thought I remember something somewhere on here about submeging the lifter in oil for like two or three days to get air out before installing. Can't seem to find it now...

Valves ground and parts on the way. One intake valve was messed up (grind machine issue, but ironic?). Ordered new lifter, push rod, valve, gaskets, and head bolts. Is there any priming procedure for the lifter or do I just cover with Lucas, drop in and go?

Pulled LIM. Intake pushrod on #3 was in fact sitting on top of the side of the lifter. New problem....the first time I fired it up (after replacing the heads), with the pushrod NOT on top of the lifter, as soon as oil pressure hit that lifter, it blew the insides out. Found the cup the...

The cup was missing before I pulled the LIM. I'm gonna pull the LIM off and see what I see. It would have to come off anyways should I pull the heads. As for the gap from the lifter while engine is off...my test (only from experience) is while one valve is held open you should be able to...

After drawing this out on paper, my compression is going past the intake valve on #3 and blowing out the intake. Short of the pushrod being in the wrong place, bad seat/valve interface. Trying to come up with an accurate way to measure #3 intake valve open/closed position as compared to any...

I need to correct a previous post. The pushrod in question is the INTAKE on #3 , NOT exhaust. But still....why is my compression coming back up into intake, and only on #3 ?

Don't know how to explain this, but I'll try. Just went out and checked the tester and it's in all the way. While turning the engine over, I could see the UIM gasket 'moving'. When I put my hand over each runner while turning engine over, I don't feel anything. When I get to the intake...

The covers are already off, that's how I can verify the valves are moving. I guess my issue with the pushrod is this: if I'm missing the cone on that one lifter, is there any possibilty (bear in mind this ain't my first top end rebuild), that the pushrod could be sitting ON the lifter, but not...

Compression test done. Started on 4, 5, 6. Then moved to 1, 2, 3. The instructions that came with the tester say to check the first and fourth 'puff'. Cyl:First 'puff'-Fourth 'puff' 4:80-145 First run (Didn't see enough variance to run more) 5:70-145 First run (Didn't see enough variance...

Or I COULD just go with these...

So now I'm freaking a little bit. I'm on RA looking at the valves...they list two different stem diameters, and I didn't measure the stock ones while they were out. I know a couple of the valves seemed maybe a thou or two over spec, but not .015"!!! I'm trying to price this stuff out and now...

Called guy I bought it from. He's thinking my valves aren't seating. Think I'm gonna pull heads and put in new valves. He's got the equipment to do a proper valve grind and offered to do it for free. I'm still gonna do a compression check before I actually pull the heads. He told me again...

One 5.5mm and one 10mm. Computers swapped. '93 still good. My DIY compression tester is a no-go. Dude brought me a 20psi gauge.....

Since I cleared the codes, how long would it have to run like this to throw codes again?

Do I just keep loosening the bolt on the ECM connector to pull it off or is there a clip also holding the connector? The bolt backs out easily for a bit, then gets hard. This I don't wanna break!!!

NM on the SPOUT...both rigs have two??? K. THAT thing. Swapped it over. '93 still good. How does it ground? While taking it off the '92 I noticed it was loose...

The ICM he was talking about and posted pics of is behind the battery. Already put eys on it in both rigs. Intersting to me is on the '92 the SPOUT is between the fuse box and firewall, but the '93 has it right there with the ICM behind the battery. Amazes me the suttle differences one year...