Search results

Unfortunately I'm discovering that finding someone competent enough to do repairs correctly the first time is keeping myself from farming out even simple jobs..... Bill

First side took me a couple hours, the other side, under an hour. They will creak and groan for quite a while before they fail, but will probably contribute to ruined tires long before they separate from the vehicle (The design makes it highly unlikely it will ever actually separate). Don't...

I have done the CV joint...quite a simple procedure, and much more cost effective than the whole shaft. During reassembly, mount with two of the old longer bolts, using them to compress the boot to the cover so the new bolts can get a start, then replace the two longer ones with the short ones...

Oil-$5/quart. Cardboard for the driveway-free. I know what my choice would have been. But glad to hear you got it fixed and at only 200 over the estimate. Bill

The lock bolt comes out easily if you heat it first-it is held in with thread locker. Always use a new bolt during reassembly-they are cheap and easy to come by as the same bolt is used in most every axle out there. Bill

Sounds like a bad pump, or sucking air from a bad fuel connection (if s/he just replaced the pump and not the whole unit). You will need 30psi fuel pressure minimum at all times, I'd bet it shows 35+ at start up but gradually decreases... Bill

2002 and up are interchangeable but different than prior years. Bill

S-clip? I know you figured it out but the C-clip either falls out or takes forever to force out Bill

Seems lower than normal. 40-50 psi is typical Ford pressures. Will it rev any higher in Park/Neutral? Some Fords of this era have rev limiters so you can't blow them up in neutral (my Windstar was about 3500 rpm) if the top limit is the same on the road as parked you may have a ECU issue Bill

Two screws. Five minutes. Done. You get good at it when you have heavy-handed young-ins pulling on those $8 plastic handles. Bill

I posted the link as an example. I'm sure the manufacturer makes more than one radiator. Seems like overkill anyways, unless you're using the truck for serious extreme conditions. Bill

I have the top of the key from my 2012 work van taped to the column until I can get to the dealer for a $120 replacement (been a year so far, still waiting) Bill

Last 171/174 fault I had was a fuel pump. What are you getting for pressure readings? It's worth the $100 to buy the China freight scan tool; this lets you monitor fuel trim, O2 sensor voltage, etc so you may heaad down the right path when repairing the vehicle, rather than blindly throwing...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-FORD-RANGER-EXPLORER-MAZDA-B-3000-4000-THREE-ROW-CORE-FULL-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR/181395820204?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29980%26meid%3Dd91c9658308a44a39f9b2783ea200473%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D22%26sd%3D2...

Just because you CAN, doesn't mean you SHOULD...luckily it was a nice day and no ####### driver pulled any funny business requiring quick action. Bill

Sounds like the wrong tank/defective tank. That well is necessary with the in-tank pump to keep the pump immersed in fuel so as to prevent starvation and keep it cool. Bill

$6.99 China Freight air hammer did the trick for me. That's after an overnight soak with Liquid Wrench/Kroil Bill

I'm curious as to why you'd want to do this? It only takes about 30 minutes to drop the tank. If you find yourself continuously changing fuel pumps maybe it's time to start exploring why that may be the case. Bill

If the truck lasts another 18 years just treat it to another new tank! Bill

Try to remove the pressure sensor from that old tank before ordering the new tank...may as well order the sensor along with it, they don't usually come out in one piece... Bill

Just lean codes-P0171 and P0174, but my fuel trim readings were leading me to believe it was either a vacuum leak or a faulty O2 sensor. Reinforces the necessity to THOROUGHLY troubleshoot and not assume or take shortcuts... Bill

I could never understand why a 39c strainer isn't included-esp. when the warranty explicitly notes that you must replace it to validate the warranty Bill

That's funny, I was thinking the same thing when I saw this thread-spark plug replacement is one of the simpler tasks on these trucks. The specialty plug socket holds the plug in a rubber insert so you don't lose it during removal or installation, other than that any ol' 5/8 quality deep socket...

The China Freight fuel pressure tester will pay for itself the first time you use it. I stubbornly chased a stumble and hard start in my V6 Mustang before finally buying the fuel tester and-whaddaya know- 15 lb pressure. New Spectrum pump and the problems all vanished. When I did the pump on...

It's all but impossible to get these apart with pressure in the system... Bill