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(I couldn't get the PCM connector to latch but it was just that I wasn't pulling the gray lever back far enough) Now that I figured that out, I'm trying to replace a contact on the PCM connector where the wire into the contact broke off. I watched the videos here and have a tiny screwdriver to...

Since this has resurfaced - the wire broke off right at the back of the connector, too close to be able to splice a wire to it. The proper way to fix this would be to remove & replace the contact in the connector with a new longer wire attached. I found this thread Pins in Wiring Harness on...

We would get sensor fault warnings about 50 minutes into a trip, we got rid of an aftermarket Bluetooth adapter and the TPMS fault never came back. :dunno:

A while back I was getting codes P1633 (Keep alive memory voltage low) and P0449 (Canister vent valve circuit malfunction) and tracked it down to no voltage getting from the battery to the connector on the PCM. I installed a jumper wire from the battery to the wire that leads to the PCM and the...

+ 1 on the Dorman part. I replaced the Y connector the first time with the expensive Ford part and it failed again. The Dorman hasn't failed yet (jinx) and it's cheaper. My guy who's a Ford dealer tech approved of it.

Yes. It was the ignition switch cylinder - it wears and the key jiggles & it thinks you're removing and inserting it which triggers the memory seat. You can replace just the cylinder relatively inexpensively and easily. Video here: As I recall the cylinder came with a whole bag of tumblers...

The Ford Tech guy on YouTube has a video on this: Some of the counterfeits he shows, don't know how a layperson could tell. On Amazon, it makes a difference if the seller is Amazon.com or a reseller. Maybe.

If this is the T-fitting on the V8 with rear heat, Dorman has a replacement assembly 626-551 that's about $85 as compared to $200+ for factory. Dorman Products - 626-551

+1 on all that. We've got a 2007 Mountaineer, same model, same engine & trans, same color, 230K+. Same rust spots. Right side power running board broke at the mounting bracket so we removed it, left one got replaced at the end of the extended warranty and still works. Issues with plugs every 50K...

FWIW - in our Mountaineer the TPMS warning would sometimes come on about an hour after starting the truck. We had one of those plug-in Bluetooth adapters and when we got rid of that, the TPMS issue went away. Also FWIW we've had a few occasions that the warning came on shortly after startup...

I'm getting codes P0446 and P1633 about which this post and this post say check fuse 24, which I did and it's OK, and I thought that cured the problem, but it turns out it takes a bit for the CEL to come on so I still have the problem. There is 12V at the fuse and the fuse is good. So next...

For quite a while, we would often get a TPMS system failure after driving for about an hour, which would always go away. There was never a code that pointed to a particular sensor. It stopped when we unplugged the Bluetooth-to-audio-in gizmo that we were using for hands-free phone. I'd have to...

In 230K miles we've replaced it twice. Brand new it almost always roars for a few seconds at startup, even when ice cold. Then at some point it starts roaring inappropriately and my wife gets annoyed and we replace it.

I was suddenly getting P0446 and P1633. Found this thread. Checked fuse 24 and it was OK. Checked a bunch of other fuses and they were OK. Started the Mountaineer and the codes were gone. Hoping that the fuse was loose or contacts dirty or something. One of those, take it apart and put it back...

The last 2 batteries we had in the Mounty, at 1 1/2 to 2 years, the truck would randomly not start. Jump it, would start fine for a couple of weeks, then dead again. The battery before the current one was one of those super-duper $200 AGM batteries, and at about 1 1/2 years, occasionally the...

At 229K my mechanic says the Mountaineer (4.6L) needs a new throttle body. Any input on new Ford vs. new aftermarket vs. remanufactured aftermarket? List from Ford is $350, can get new Ford for $200, new aftermarket is $125 - $175 - $275, can get Cardone reman from Summit Racing for around $90.

Is there a standard size for the transmission cooler fitting o-rings and if so, what is it, or are there differences depending on the radiator? Had the radiator replaced Feb 2017 with an unknown aftermarket radiator. Recently noticed a fluid leak which turned out to be transmission fluid from...

Another vote for Timken. 6 months & lots of miles, no issues.

Check for water leaking through the cowl between the hood and the windshield and dripping onto the rear spark plugs and filling the plug holes and shorting out the coils. The plastic piece under the cowl is held on via clips that go into holes directly above the spark plugs. In a heavy rain...

Went with the Timken because Amazon can get them here Tuesday and after I drove the truck today and heard how bad it is, the sooner the better. :eek:

Time to replace front hubs. Any brands better or worse than others? Any bad experiences to keep away from? Rock Auto has Power Stop (cheap), WJB (cheap), Centric (mid), Timken, Moog, AC Delco, SKF (not cheap). Ford OEM most $ of all. SKF & Timken I've heard of, but that doesn't always mean...

+1 on the battery. I started having airbag faults a few months ago and ended up replacing the battery and haven't seen a fault since. I have a motorcycle with ABS that is notoriously sensitive to battery voltage - if the battery is weak or cold, it throws an ABS fault at startup. When it...

We were getting a TPMS system fault that would kick in after driving for about an hour. I disconnected our add-on Bluetooth hands-free system and the TPMS fault hasn't come back. Apparently some sort of interference from the Bluetooth.

Beginning to suspect the starter on our Mountaineer. RockAuto has TYC (Asian OEM supplier), Remy, AC Delco, some other unknown brands. Any good/bad comments for any of these? Is this one of those parts where the Motorcraft part is worth twice the price?

Well, we have what I would call a thump, about 10 seconds after the engine starts, feels like the passenger side. It's just long enough after starting that you just start moving and there's a thump that feels like something broke in the drivetrain. You can feel it as much as hear it. But...