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Literally... just had the shop do a coolant flush and install a new thermostat on my wife's 02 Explorer (I work at a dealership) as a result of poor heating. I had them run a coolant temp diagnostic and the temp never got above 175 degrees. It should be running at 195 degrees is everything is...

Fronts in the US. We don't have rear fogs here. YES, either position you can add the fogs.

Time to pull that engine COMPLETELY down. At the very least, the pan needs to come off and once in there, bearings would be on my short list. Oil pump screen, the list goes on... :mad:

Good to hear she is back up and running normally. Enjoy ! :)

You could try a Ford Ranger seat. Won't fit directly but may be the right width and they did come with a fold up arm rest as you mentioned.

It is most likely the parking brake shoe and or mechanism that actuates the parking brake(s). They tend to rust apart and fall into the inner drum portion of the rotor. Not a major deal but it should be removed. :) Welcome to the forum.

I would start with your main ground cable from the battery to the engine block. From there, check ALL of your grounds. Clean them up, apply some dielectric grease, and put things back together. It sounds to me like a ground issue or a bad battery...

Your servo is broken / has an internal leak.

The kit linked does two things: 1) adds an additional 4-qts oil capacity 2) supplies a dipstick that is used to read trans fluid levels. Did I miss something?

2005 has a different (up-graded) suspension and Roll Stability Control RSC. Otherwise no difference except the grill in the 05 is chrome and not painted flat black in the center.

Not enough surface area to keep things glued together. It may work for a few cycles but isn't going to last over the long term.

What you're describing is likely an ignition miss, causing lack of power. If it idles rough, that is yet another indicator. A fuel filter certainly won't hurt. Unless you've previously changed the plugs and wires, you can assume that they are the originals. Happens all the time with 4.0L...

Have you put them in yet?

Shouldn't. My bet is that there is a wire through the door loom, that is broken.

You'll need to bring in the spindles, too. Then it is a plug-N-play.

Which engine? How many miles? When were the plugs / wires replaced? Any other symptoms or issues?

Could be the key pad itself. There are wires going through the drivers door that if broken (they do break), will render the keypad in-op. From the sounds of it, you have lost power to the key pad OR it is bad.

Not sure on the quality but for that price, you can't go wrong if you're doing the labor.

I've seen the hub actually bend to a point of not being usable.

Could be many things. As you mentioned, U-joints, worn ring and pinion gears, spider gears, clutch packs that are worn, and there will always be a little bit of slop when rotating from forward to reverse when there is no load on the wheels.

Not so sure about that. Mine gets flushed and new filter every 60K miles. :scratch:

Take a look at the hinge pins, hard to see them as they are too small for the job BUT, if you look at them, are they straight through the portion on the glass and where they go through the other half connected to the main hatch?

Common sense prevails. If the tow vehicle is not jumping in and out of OD, causing unneeded shifts, then it is safe to tow in overdrive. The biggest reason that Ford suggests not towing in OD is for those who aren't smart enough to know the difference. The engine won't blow up at 3,500 RPMs...

Also check for loose / worn suspension parts. Tie rod ends like to cause "shimmy" when braking. Wheel bearings is another.

254,000 and still shifting like the day it was new. Will provide a pic, if needed...