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Sounds familiar.

Ive been curious because I found one for $90 sent from AC Delco... I paid way too much for new other brand.. because I didnt have cash but I did have merch credit at parts store. grr

Curious if anyone has put one of the AC Delco starters in their Explorer/Mountaineer/Ranger and if they are pleased with it.

I agree. Im worried about blow out this summer.

We took our 96 for a 300+ mi trip. Next morning it was -22F and it was leaking coolant from mid upper pass side radiator. Yesterday I picked up a new radiator. Today I warmed it up for 30 mins while I topped off trans fluid and watched for leaks. Nothing leaking! There is coolant on top of...

I am seeing a direct connection in the midwest of car prices to fuel prices. Suv's will increase in value now that we have under $2/gal for unleaded. I can find Saturn sedans with 44k mi to 70k miles around $2400 to $1500. Last year they were over $6k with 44k mi easily sold daily when fuel...

1998 Explorer XLT 4x4 - 4.0 SOHC 178k MI Great tires & stock rims, good brakes, body is real decent, vinyl/ford leather in great shape, clean inside and overall good shape. Issue: Died going around a corner. Inertia switch engaged. Checked starter and it does crank flywheel. Did not run...

Starting up a thread so we can post vehicles that are for sale/trade/barter and let others comment what they think its worth. Great members here, so I expect everyone will behave.

Thanks everyone. Turdle... I see the 2nd gen pics. That will do. _______ I found a 98 xlt 4x4 4.0 sohc for sale. crank no start. died going around a corner. was stout before that. As it isnt running, havent tested fuel pressure, cant hear fuel pump, cranks no start, and its a...

Now that I have some $... I am going to run the tests to narrow down what to replace. Anyone have a vid or pics of access cutout to get to fuel pump easier? Rust bucket has issues with bolts stripping. >no welder to weld a nut on... I have to see if the pump assembly and pump is Mexico or...

I just put the 10a back in and still high voltage. Battery is from last Jan 13' and should be good. There has to be a ground issue somewhere. Just want to make it through winter then I will )sell( dump it in spring.

Here is a diagram I went off of that I chose to upgrade from 10a to 15a on the voltage regulator. Backflash-> Out of the blue, my needle went below. My battery wouldnt hold up to idle then wouldnt start without getting charged. Repeat of dead battery. Help from you guys, I put in the 15a fuse...

How do I reset the fuel pump? Explains the temp sensitivity- when it warms up it will work. Im 100% sure it will fail this winter since it gets down to -25F actual temp. ___________________________ Checked inertia first. A OK. Listened for pump to kick on. Neg. Reset security...

I have not checked any relays, grounds, connections since the starter issue. I have not tested the fuel pump at all. As rusty as this Explorer is... mixed with cold... could be any wiring/connection issue anywhere. Last time they were all good. Relays have some burns on them but I think...

All these issues started after I put in a higher amp fuse. Couple months ago the starter failed. Now the fuel pump wouldnt work this morning. No power to it. I tried to click ignition forward without starting and nothing. After a cigarette, damn thing had power again and the Explorer started...

Starter replaced. Issue resolved.

Im still having issues with my pass front window and illumination dash lights. Still not saying the two have something to do with each other. Switches sometimes works only when I first turn ignition to run but not start to engage starter. After I roll the window down, Master switch (drivers...

Followed all wiring. There has to be a broken wire without being cut? New Issues: I now have dash lights! Also my fuel and battery gauges are pegged. My radio comes on but no sound. Same Issue: Cig lighter still does not work. Im thinking it doesnt have anything to do with the problem...

Replaced all bulbs in the dash. Replaced circuit board and plastic circuit piece also. All back together and no change. All mini bulbs operate. The main 5 or 6 dimmer dash lights do not work. Going to trace back the wiring. No idea of the diagram to look at. NEone know where to find that...

All switches work. None of the 5 will make the hatch lock rod go fully up or down. Power does go to the lock actuator and it does move but not far. Must be stuck or the actuator is not forceful enough or the wiring is bad. Going to get to the wiring soon. Still havent found the bad part of...

If you replace alternator but not battery, then run it and it fails; then replace battery with a now used alternator; then fail again... could it not be failed wiring or ground? Replace alternator and battery. I hear replacing one and not the other will cause continual failure. I have not had...

Still working great. No issues since. Does it make sense to upgrade the fuses? To me having too many amps could start things on fire.

Loaded them all on one post. Hope you dont mind. I like this site already!

Problem Resolved! Alternator is just slightly above middle. Charging system is working. I resorted to new updated diagram of fuses and relays. I cleaned 3 grounds in engine compartment. Chiltons had higher amp fuses so I replaced a "15a stock" with a 20a. thanks for some help!