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Does anyone have a source for these plastic covers - I’ve looked at several eBay sources and they end up being 80-90 apiece shipped for the oem. The aftermarket on Amazon has some pretty negative fitment reviews Surely someone reproduces the part that will fit - mine are crumbling Thx

I’ve seen enough errors in rock auto parts that I only use them as a last resort

I wouldn’t want to make a big deal out of this but I ended up buying a walbro and it’s made in the USA - I seem to recall the Bosch units were fabricated in China

Put a pe-oiler on it and you can drive it a long time and not hear the startup rattle

Most of the Ford replacement parts are made in Europe as was the engine

I’m gonna see if a can try the zip tie

My problem is that I know it’s leaking through to the heater hoses and core - I don’t have a blend door issue but the leakage does put heat load into the dash - we use our heaters about 3 days of the year in south Fl and I just do without it with a bypass.

Has anyone actually bypassed the valve and heater core - I’m convinced mine is passing fluid with a vacuum on it and I’m thinking of just going around the entire system and eliminating - was a premolded hose used ?

Good post - thx Donald

I called walbro bc I had read it was made in the USA - they told me which pump to buy - never had another issue

Thx for the input folks - I had an older flo tool # 1 to be able to put it on - I had been using 6 - I guess I’ll be ok with it - I make notes in my new filter which tool to use to remove and I’ll just update it

I’ve never put any additive in and I try to avoid idling too long in places where I hear it - the pre-oiler fixes the startup rattle and I consider the slight knock coming from the driver side cover at idle as part of driving a 23 year old truck - if I knew how to fix it I might but it doesn’t...

I’ve been using the subject filter for years and never had any issues - because of time and gas prices I just ordered a couple on Amazon - what I got had a different flute on the drive section - I used a different tool that I had to install it - could the part I got be counterfeit ? - I’m just...

Maybe I have air trapped in the system or the duct measurement is wrong - I’ll keep working with it

I did this repair in south Fl and replaced every part with a Ford part except for the evaporator that just could not source by motorcraft or Ford - I think it was 4 seasons - I’m running about 210/42 and about 59 degrees out of the vent - I’ve been slowly removing Freon as I think I overfilled...

What is the best way to power the evap vent solenoid and purge valve solenoid ? Can I just put 12 bolts to the valves and not damage them ?

Wear between the chain and the guides are not a concern and chain wear is minimal

I have been running a accumulator as a pre-oiler for 5 years - and it really works

Thx Donald - that’s a ****load of bolts - I’ll post my results if anything interesting - I pimpled about 3/4 fluid out through the top. Hope that keeps it less messy

I’m getting ready to do this at about the 30k post rebuild - anything else I should check for? What torque should the vale body bolts be ?

I just ordered a driver side crank from Tasca - it’s not worth me trying to make a bushing

Should there be a bushing between the inner link and the drive diameter ? Mine is sloppy loose

Thx don - I’ll get that gasket - can I ask you what screen you used ?

Don- thx for the response - I studied the aluminum offering and i think it will interfere with the catalytic converter. - I think I’ll try the Ford gasket on the current pan - if I pull it off and see distortion I’ll get the doorman pan Can you verify the Ford pn for the screen - F57Z 7A098A or...

Should I really spend the money on the aluminum pan ? it’s a 500$ truck I’ll do it if it will get rid of the leakage.