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I jack up the front where the springs meet the control arm thingy. Then I place the jack stands under the front jack points and lower. Then I drag my floor jack to the rear use the same piece of really tough looking metal that the receiver hitch is installed on and again slide the jack stands...

Pretty sure that 200lb is without WDH. With WDH, tongue weight limit is 500lbs. Actually, the only way to get to the 5,000lb towing max is to use WDH.

On the other hand, the tongue weight on a front hitch will raise the back end reducing the traction to the drive wheels. A rear mounted hitch helps with traction because of the added tongue weight but gets your drive wheels wet and slick. Pick your poison. IMO, way overthinking this...

You need to find a new ATM. The ones I use have the adjustable height feature. Been around for decades!

I recall in the olden days battery makers recommending 1 CCA for every cubic inch of engine displacement. At 466 CCA with a 3.5L engine, you're good to go. My Suburban with a 5.3L engine has a 6 year old battery that makes 350CCA. It's a little slow to crank but she always starts. I agree with...

Correct. No actual science to back up the "rule of thumb", but then again, I think the OP would be hard pressed to find any definitive scientifically-tested guides...so spit ball math and trial and error and common sense it is.

I haven't ever seen any guides but the old rule of thumb is 110" of wheelbase for a 20' trailer and add 4" of wheelbase for every foot of trailer. YMMV.

They worked fine when the box was empty during the dry fit. Ended up not using it though in favor of my hitch box instead so have no clue how much clearance there would be when the box is loaded. My guess is it would be fine unless you hit a huge pot hole or something.

True but in this instance the salesman is actually saying to go lighter! There is a first for everything. LOL

Ford is excellent at publishing towing guides. Pull one up for your year and it will tell you when it's appropriate to use a WDH. Sometimes there is also a little placard near the hitch receiver opening that will also give the max ratings with and without WD. I believe the cutoff is 2000lbs IIRC.

Along the inner edge of the flush rails there are little plastic plugs that can be removed using a Torx T25 bit. Pick up some 6mm eyebolts big enough to loop the straps through. May wanna use some pool noodles on the roof to add a little support and protect the finish. Pay attention to the...

I'd probably tow it too...once... at least to see how it goes but regularly, not so sure. IMO, there aren't many 1/2 ton (ish) suv's that I would want to tow with regularly. Even Navigators, suburbans, yukons, etc. are really more suited for every weekend type duty rather than daily, i.e. 3-4...

Got a buddy with a trailer about the same size or maybe ask the dealer for a test tug? Maybe rent one for a weekend? Give it try. See how it goes. What's your towing experience?

Redflags...I would never do it that scenario.

Traded my wife's 2011 xlt with a little under 60k. No major issues except for PTU leak that was repaired under warranty. Really good chance it would have gone to 75k and well beyond without any issues. Didn't sit too long on the dealer's lot that we traded it into. Probably around a week...

I'd sell you mine but I like having things collect dust in my garage on the slightest off chance that I might need them again sometime over the course of a century or so...:banghead:

Yes, if you mind the beeping, then you have to turn them off.

tirerack went to bat for me last time I ordered from them. The installer tried to charge me more than what was quoted on their tire installer "pledge" page but they cleared it up pretty quickly for me.

150 lbs

Here's what I do with mine when I'm not using it. Makes for a pretty decent storage solution. I like how I get 24hour/day use out of it all year round. They are pricey so the more use out it I get the better.

You might be pleasantly surprised with a hitch mounted system. They actually have quite a few advantages over roof mounted that I personally enjoy...no effect on fuel economy, no added wind noise, easier to load/unload...to name a few. I would highly recommend over any rooftop box.

Another thing you might wanna look into is how close the clamps of the cargo box come to touching the glass of the sunroof. If heavy loaded and the right pothole, it may make contact if the cross bar has enough flex in it. I recall having very little clearance.

That's wierd. I just did it and had no problems. Which model were you building? I randomly picked the Limited. For what it's worth, I used a 21 cu ft yakima skybox and had no issues with the sunroof/moonroof. I didn't open the moonroof but I would bet it would clear just fine. The front of...

where did you hear that?

If the problem is with the system itself, you'll need to have it serviced. Refilling tires to spec will not solve your issue. Eventually, that warning light will move from being on intermittently to being on all the time until you get it serviced. If you don't mind staring at that light...