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I'll check out the Facebook groups. I'd love to keep it and find another body. Unfortunately, I don't see many of them come up for sale. Just looked at Autotrader, there's 1 1994 for sale within 300 miles of me!

Thanks. I don't mind becoming a supporting member if I end up parting it out. Want to get feedback though to see if there's any interest!

After picking up my 1994 Explorer about 2 1/2 years ago for a good price ($500) and putting about $1,000 worth of parts into it (new compressor, accumulator, hoses, radiator, power steering pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, spark plug wires, fan, fan clutch, etc.), it was hit. My son was at a dead...

That's a shame but for under $300 you can put in a whole new system if you ever wanted to.

Were the orifice tubes actually blown into the evaporator? If so, they must have been clogged up and created tremendous pressure or the previous owner shoved them in so hard, he pushed them past the lip that holds them in place. Make sure to inspect them when you remove them. Any metal...

If you have a leak that big, you won't build up any pressure! Get a UV light, go out tonight when it's dark and you'll find a leak that size in about 2 seconds!

Likely causes are o-rings, pin hole in one of the hoses/lines. Front and/or body seal on compressor. A complete o-ring kit is around $10. Get a UV llight, see where the dye is leaking, replace defective part, replace your o-rings and accumulator (since system will have been opened up), vacuum...

Jack up the front of the truck to ensure the radiator cap is the highest point of the cooling system. Take the cap off, start the engine and turn the heater on. Once the thermostat opens and starts circulating the coolant, it's pretty easy to ensure all the air is purged.

I 2nd TrashTruck. Warped heads, head gasket, fan clutch. Rent (you get all your money back) a coolant pressure tester from Autozone. Connect it, start the engine and see if pressure starts building right away (before the thermostat opens). If so, you're getting combustion gases in the...

A strong second for changing out the fuel pump and hanger assembly while you have the tank dropped. They tend to fail quickly once they've sat and had a chance to rust up. It could run for another couple of years but for a little over $100, it's a no-brainer. You shouldn't ever have to...

Great!

Sounds like you've got air in the system. Jack up the front so the radiator cap is the highest point of the car. Run it till the thermostat opens with the heater on full hot and the radiator cap off. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to help burp the air out.

OneofMany, spot on!

The 1 pin is located right next to the water outlet (where the thermostat is located). The electrical connector just pulls straight up and off. You then just unscrew the sensor. It's a little tough to get to with the upper radiator hose in the way but it's doable. My temperature...

Did you replace the coolant sensor or sender? The 1 pin sensor is for the gauge, the 2 pin is for the PCM. Is your fan and fan clutch in good condition? Coolant level OK?

I got lucky that the clutch failed before the compressor suffered any kind of catastrophic failure. I agree with you that the vast majority of the time, the system should be flushed. The fact that the orifice tube was spotless, led me to not flush it this time.

Thanks. Yea, I thought I'd have more time but even with outside temps in the low 70's, the car sits in the sun and get's hot!

Had the A/C compressor clutch fail on my 1994 Expedition about 2 months ago. The compressor was also slowing leaking refrigerant from the main body seal. Cool weather in Atlanta so no problems. Got the shorter drive belt, disconnected the compressor switch (on the compressor) and bypassed the...

180,000. I honestly don't think they are as weak as they're reputed to be. I understand that there's much stronger transmissions out there but I it seems like of a lot of the failures are in trucks that do a lot of heavy towing or off roading.

Will do, thanks!

I purchased the Bosch (the OE supplier) complete hanger assembly from Rockauto. It was about $125 a year ago. Haven't had a hiccup with it. I also changed my fuel filter as well. I wasn't about to skimp and try to save $30-$40 on something that would strand me on the side of the road if it...

Sounds like you got it! Check the PS fluid level over the next couple of days. It may go down a little as any remaining air is pushed out.

If you have it rebuilt again, I would seriously consider installing a Magnefine transmission filter (very easy to do). Studies have shown that 90%+ of all transmission wear particles are generated when breaking in a new or rebuilt transmission. The Magnefine filter will prevent those wear...

I pulled the pulley when it was still installed, swapped out a rebuilt pump, installed the pump and then reinstalled the pulley. I think it's much easier that way. As I mentioned earlier, you need to ensure the new pulley is aligned with the other pulley's. No way to do that unless the pump's...

You need a pulley puller to remove (and install) the PS pulley. Autozone rents them for free (you pay for it and then get all your money back when you return it). Just make sure you take the time to line the pulley back up when you reinstall it. If you don't, you can quickly ruin your drive...