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Definitely...I replaced the door sensor on my driver's door while I had it open since it seemed to be all "gummy". BUT, I found the infamous broken black wire in the door hinge. I tested all the wiring in the door, but my light is still on. I fear I only fixed part of the problem, now to see...

I have heard that the glue used by the manufacturer is actually too strong and doesn't allow for flex...resulting in the cracked panel. I don't know what you should use, but make sure it can flex!

Exactly!

After changing the switch, wire diagnostics, soldering the broken ground wire, I've come to the conclusion that door was only part of the problem...on to the next door...grrrrr...trying to get the dash lights cleared for my sons drivers test!

Yah...that's not it. Tried that

I also have this lovely door ajar light...found a broken ground wire in the driver hinge area. Soldered it up and no dice. Anybody know which wiring harness the connects to on the fuse box so I can test wire continuity?

The connection wasn't the issue. Tested each part of the wiring harness. Found a section that didn't have any resistance. Replaced with one from the junkyard and it is now functional again! Now to track down which door sensor is not working!

Replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly today...FIXED! Man was it a ***** though! After 12 years of rust...damn thing did not want to come out!

Ordered a new one...I'll let you know how it goes...

Sorry, I meant SRS...I have both issues! And I have a bad cable!

A quick trip to the junk yard and $5 later I have a new wire harness...here's to hoping it clears my ABS issues! Jenn

Short time lurker here...so, I got the DTC for replacing a bad speed sensor. Sensor has been replaced, code erased, but now I get DTC C1234 for a missing signal. I tested the resistance on the new sensor and the sensor is good. What next? Do I need to replace the hub? TIA, Jenn