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Solved: It was the battery. It's been 2 weeks and everything is good. Thanks for everyone's help

I'll definitely have it tested before buying another one, but the battery may very well be the issue

Appreciate all your help

So I was working on it this morning. After reading more about it last night, I wasn't sure if I was measuring correctly, so I unhooked the battery, closed the latches and hooked up my meter and turned it on. I waited about an hour and it was down to 40 ma. Either connecting the meter woke things...

Gotcha. I'll check tomorrow Thanks for your replies

I pulled all of the fuses on the side of the dash one by one. The only one that changed was the GEM #25 fuse

The only thing aftermarket is the radio

I have a 97 Mountaineer 5.0. My battery was going dead after sitting for about a week so I disconnected the negative and charged the battery. Then I closed the latches on the door and hood and waited an hour. I was getting a draw of 450 ma. When I pulled fuse 25- the instrument cluster and GEM...

Mercon V is recommended for P.S. pumps. I've run it for years in my Explorer, Mountaineer, and F150. If you're hesitant to use it, I'd recommend Lucas power steering fluid. I've also used it with no problems

Bolts only. No lock ring

I broke mine one time while changing plug wires. I put some JB Weld on a plastic wall anchor and let it sit on top of the broken dip sick until the next day and then pulled it out

The EGR position sensor is attached to it. Just swap it to the new EGR

Mine was bad and causing an excessive EGR code.

EGR Solenoid

I use a shorty ratchet wrench to get to it. It's not in the greatest spot, but it's not too bad

I had an AWD Limited Explorer that this happened to years ago. My wife pulled away from a red light, heard a bang, and the vehicle stopped. I was told by the shop that the chain inside broke. We put a used t case in and it was fixed

I replaced the air shocks with regular shocks on my 98 Limited with no issues. There is a wire that I disconnected from the info center (don't remember which one but I'm sure it's easy to find out) to stop the air ride msg from popping up on the display. I've had Lincoln's and an Explorer with...

Unfortunately that style uca was discontinued long ago. Even an OEM is 1 piece. As others have said, you could try a used one and be sure to replace the bushings with a quality set

That's good to hear. My Mountaineer has a coolant leak. It's either the timing cover or the water pump. I'm dreading doing it

The radiator can come out without pulling the condenser. But the fan clutch has to come out to get the shroud out of the way. The rad and condenser are clipped together

When my Mountaineer was leaking, I temporarily sealed the sunroof and it still leaked. Which let me know it was the windshield. A co-worker body tech fixed it and that took care of the majority of the leaks. I still had a slight leak so I dropped the headliner and poured water on the roof to see...

The 1st time I did mine, I had an access to a lift and I didn't have to disconnect anything. But the next time I did it, was at home on the ground and unhooked the shock and stabilizer

You'll be able to bleed the brakes-no problem. As long as the abs pump doesn't get low. it's not an issue. I've changed calipers and steel lines on mine at different times with no problem

You can first try putting the window down and spraying some PBBlaster down inside the door. I'm not sure about the Explorers, but on some cars if you remove the belt molding. you can have some better access to the latch and lock rods.

I had that problem once on my 98 Limited. I unhooked the battery for a few minutes and it seemed to reset the compressor and leveled everything out