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I agree with Donalds about the GEM not controlling the wipers but... You said you changed out the GEM. Was it from a vehicle with the same features as your current vehicle? Meaning was it from the same year, same number of doors, same code number? If not that could be some of your electrical...

Just checked out the condenser and quite a bit of the condenser fins are bent in the area that can be seen through the front grill. Maybe following my buddies too close on the dirt roads, kicking up rocks...? Maybe too aggressive when trying to clean it out...? I am going to try to remove front...

I will take a look at the condenser and see if it is clean and no bent fins. No access to a vacuum pump at the moment. Maybe the auto parts store has one.

Keep in mind that the temp outside was around 100 when I hooked up the gauges and started adding the R134a. The gauges were reading around 44-45 psi and I stopped when psi reached around 50. This did not make a difference in vent temp, which was reading at 78. I am thinking this is not a low...

It was blowing cold air on the trip for Fourth of July, all across the Mojave dessert. It just slowly started blowing less cold air. Now it blows slightly cool air. Temp at vents reads 80. Compressor is running continuously, so that would mean I have enough oil in system to maintain 45 psi on a...

I tried recharging it today. My gauges read about 45 on low side, temp was around 100 outside. If I revved the engine the gauge would drop to around 20-25. I hooked up can and began charging, gauge read around 50 on low side but the vent air does not feel much colder. I know my blend door is...

I am usually checking pressure at idle speed, around 900 rpm, but some times I get in and rev it up for a minute just to see what the gauges read.

I am hoping some of you guys and gals can clarify some A/C questions for me. I know the general function of the a/c system, of pump, condenser, evap, etc. My questions is/are... 1) How does outside heat affect a/c readings on the gauges? Example- Low side 42, high side 200, outside temp 100...

I just went through this process of finding a leak. I tried the UV dye and then the leak detector but soapy water worked best. It was coming from the evaporator, a place that the UV dye and leak detector could not find. As with everybody else, find the leak first.

Is this with all your windows at the same time? It sounds like maybe a ground problem. Check fuses. There are articles on this site that explain how to clean your multi-function switch.

I was able to use a handle from a 5 gal bucket and wiggled it through back window to unlock. Might be enough power to unlock it that way.

It looks like the tube that goes from the intake to the valve cover on the drivers side towards the firewall.

I got on a Fords part site and it lists a red and a blue A/C orifice tube for my VIN. Which one is right or are these interchangeable?

Thanks for everyone's input. I might wait to fix it because it is hot here in SoCal right now. I will look into parts to see what I need. Hey, Pete... any way to tell what color orifice tube I need before ordering parts?

UV dyes and a leak detector could not find the leak but good old fashion soapy water did the trick.

This past year it takes less than two months for the air to go from cold to warm, so I think it's a big enough leak. Thanks for asking Sport Trac jr. I think I forgot to mention that in my original post. I got the leak detector last night, charged up system this morning and blows cold air...

I broke down and bought a leak detector last night. I have crawled underneath looking at the condenser, accumulator, hoses, etc, and I see nothing glowing. I have traced hoses, connections and fittings with no luck. Either the UV dye is not strong enough to see or I have no leak in my system...

I have checked the service port caps and except for a tiny glow from them nothing stands out. I have crawled under the engine looking up, down and all around at any connection I can see. I am now low on refrigerant as the clutch comes on and shuts off every few seconds. It's gotta be going...

Hey guys! I am trying to track down an a/c leak. A couple months ago my a/c started blowing warm air so I went and got some R134a with UV dye and the system was blowing cold air once again. After running the engine for a while off and on through out the day until night fall, I put on my funky...

I recently had to pull my 4.0 engine out. The way I did it was to remove drive shaft, remove cross member, (If there is one), and lower the back end of transmission, allowing me to get a socket on a LONG extension to remove the bolts. You might also be able to reach them from the wheel well...

I believe that on most cars/trucks the rear diff has some sort of limited slip for when going around a corner, the outer wheel travels farther and faster than the inside one. Does the front also have this capability, especially in 4WD mode? 4WD is for dirt/gravel type roads only.

After doing some research the paint codes you mentioned are from 1997 Ford Explorer, not that it makes a big difference. I know on my '96 the paint code is listed on the side of the drivers door. It should list body color and trim color, both a two digit code. I think your trim color is the TR...

It's been a while since I dropped my oil pan but if my memory is good I was able to undo all the bolts holding oil pan on, drop it down and removed the two bolts holding the oil pump and removed oil pan and pump. To install move oil pan, (with gasket), and pump into position, mount oil pump and...

My first question is, are you doing this in your garage? If so you will need to raise the car high enough to get the tranny out along with jack or whatever you are supporting tranny with. I would remove driveshaft, disconnect all wiring and linkages to tranny, loosen exhaust ( might have...

Mine has a child-safety-lock mechanism on the side of the door frame. That might keep it from opening. I also had to replace inside door handle because it broke at the gears.