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2013 Explorer XLT with tow package. We got a new explorer and are keeping this one for running errands etc. I'm in the process of replacing all the original radiator hoses and, since we will not be doing any towing, I'm wondering if it is possible to bypass the engine oil cooler. I would like to...

You don't necessarily have the Police package. In 2013, Ford changed to HD brakes (same as police package) on some trim levels.

As Peter said, they changed midway in the 2013 production to include the HD brake package on all Explorers at some trim levels. One way to check is to measure the diameter of your front rotors. HD brakes have 13.86" diameter front rotors and Standard duty has I think 12.8" diameter front rotors.

We bought our 2013 XLT with the dual sunroof and also bought the optional roof rack/carrier which we never installed. They fit perpendicular to the roof bars. Not sure if it would fit the 2018 model. Aside from that, I'm sure that somewhere on the internet there is a seller who has something...

I do this but also include a rubber puck with a groove on each of the pinch welds. The pucks get "chewed up" over time but I keep this set separate to use for this purpose.

DONE! Problem solved! Thanky you! 410Fortune I gave up on the stud and focused on the alternative. Loosened the motor mount and jacked up the engine. Compressor out!

It is supposed to come out. I am having the exactsame issue. Been struggling trying to get this thing out for two days... :(

Hey Thanks for the input. I did start the job already and you are correct. That top bolt looks near impossible to get at from below though, so after sizing up the situation I decided to remove the passenger side fender splash shield to try and get better access from there. I did have to...

Maybe... Not even sure how I would go about that. So I have an idea... But I need opinions. I don't know how well that stud is in there but my thought was to put on two nuts and try to back it out using one nut against the other. My concern with this aproach is that I might break the stud...

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Many of these guys have huge markups on parts. You should ask if you can supply the parts yourself. Even buying ford parts yourself would probably be less expensive. I had a failed belt tensioner a couple of years ago and the shop wanted labor plus $150 for the part. I went out and purchased...

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Ya thanks. I found both of those as well when I searched. The one from Jim the car guy is probably not relevant since he is replacing the condenser. The other one was "sort of" on the right track, but In any case, this is not about a routine installation at this point. My issue now is how to...

I am trying to remove a failed AC compressor from my 2013 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L Everything is disconnected except for one item number six (6) in the diagram below. It is a threaded stud that must be removed in order for the compressor to come out of the vehicle. I've tried various penetrants...

I just replaced my alternator. It has the same deal with a threaded stud into the block and a nut on that. You don't need to remove the radiator but you do need to remove the fan.

Ya I do have aluminum wheels. So I think I'll just get Timken or SKF and buy from Amazon or someplace else where returns are easy... just in case.

I'm looking at Rock Auto, Amazon, Moog web site, they all list a separate front hub assembly for "aluminum wheels" but only on certain brands. Other brands like Timken, SKF, *** have the correct bearing but make no distinction for aluminum wheels. I just wondered why some brands would offer a...

Looking at new wheel bearings for my 2013 XLT and am seeing some brands (Moog for instance) list two different part numbers: one for steel wheels (512460) and one for aluminum wheels (512641). Searching through the specs I cannot find anything that shows what the difference is. Some brands...

I'm replacing the rear wheel speed sensors on my 2013 Explorer and I have a slight problem. The other end of the existing connector harness is up over the frame in a tight spot where I can only fit two fingers to work with. I was hoping someone could give me a quick overview on how this...

Any tips on removing an ABS sensor (2013 Explorer 4WD rear) that is frozen in the knuckle? I've spent all morning wiggling and applying penetrant but it absolutely will not budge. I don't care if I need to replace it afterward but I'd like to get it out in one piece. Thanks!

So I just read somewhere that a bad wheel bearing could be mistaken for tire noise while driving.

Thanks Eddie! Ya, that's what I was always told. It just had me "befuddled" beacause I figured the mechanic had expertise that I didn't, and since the vehicles does have 153,000 miles on it, I didn't question him. But after checking it out, I wondered if there were other ways to diagnose a...

So I had our 2013 Explorer in for some maintenance and the mechanic told me that I had a VERY bad wheel bearing on one of the rear wheels. He took me for a ride so we could listen it. It is loud, and it has been loud for a while, but I attributed the noise to the snow tires... In fact the...

Thanks for the info. I need to replace my rear wheel bearings so I'm very interested in your approach. Let me see if I'm understanding your method... Are you saying that you "popped out" the balls from inside the bearing assembly leaving just the outer ring of the bearing? and then cutting a...