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Try www.ackits.com. They have an excellent forum.

Well, I have a couple thousand miles on them now. I purchased the XTerrains when I blew a tire a couple months ago (search my old posts for some pics). I got them through my local Costco, and out the door with tax was $580, plus they were giving away a $50 gift card, so the net was $530. That...

I am going through that with mine right now. A driveshaft shop could not even rebuild the stock unit. They would have to make me a custom unit to replace it, and that was more expensive than buying a shaft through Napa.

Right front tire on my Explorer. Fast lane, approx 80mph. And the spare - yeah, that made me feel safe.

Sounds like lower ball joints. That is what was causing the clunking on mine.

I found specs for the H.O. to be as follows for 89-92 Mustang - 272*, 211*@.050, .437 lift - intake and exhaust are the same, with a 115* lobe center. And everyone agrees that the Ex cam is whimpy compared to that. There are 2 cams I am considering - Crower 212HR212 275*, 212*@.050...

Nobody knows the stock cam specs? Anyone?

I think the E303 isn't the best choice for a heavy vehicle with a small engine. A cam with a 210* or so duration would give much better torque and wouldn't give up any HP below 5500. Anyway, back to the orginal question - does anyone know the stock cam specs?

Did my lowers over the weekend. To those of you who are thinking about doing it, just remove the entire steering knuckle and get it out of your way. First side took over 2 hours, fighting everything because I was trying to disassemble as little as possible. Second side took less than an hour...

Anyone know the stock cam specs for a 97 vintage 5.0. P series heads (if that makes a difference). Been searching the web... Thanks!

I had to swap out the right side exhaust manifold over the weekend. Typical 5.0 cracked manifold. It actually came out in 2 pieces. With 118K miles, I expected the worst - siezed bolts, broken bolts, etc... Not to mention the total lack of room to work. I must have done something right in a...

Just wanted to share my experience with fixing this code. The code description is a minor leak in the evap system. Well, I went back through old postings and most problems seemed to be with the purge valve. So, I removed my valve, disassembled it and blew it out with air. I then verified...

Does anyone know if the tubular style and the cast style are interchangeable? I searched and could not find anything. I have a '97 with the EGR bung. Will a '98 cast version fit?

In the past, all my vehicles specified that the engine should be idling in Park or Neutral when checking ATF levels. The book for my Ex reads like the engine should be off. It is a 97 with a 4r70w. A search here didn't turn up anything useful. So - running or not?

I installed a B&M shift kit, plus the pressure regulator and bypass clutch control valve from Baumann over the weekend. I went with B&M for the shift kit because I have used their kits in the past and have been happy with them. I have also used Transgo kits in the past and was never happy...

I use their fuel conditioner and injector cleaner and have been very happy with it. I have not tried their ATF additive yet, but that may be soon...

Yeah, and if you use a TBS with a Tornado you will get 500HP and 50mpg.

For those of you who claim an improvement, please provide detailed fuel consumption data to back your claims. In other words, lets hear some real-world mpg analysis.

Could you have possibly contaminated the oil when you changed the intake gaskets? Did you notice if any coolant leaked out of the ports and down into the engine? Chocolate milk color is definitely water contamination. If you got enough coolant into the oil to do that, then your coolant level...

Most of these have been covered... - Make sure head and block surfaces are flat - warpage of either is bad - Use NEW head bolts. Stock bolts are torque-to-yield and can only be used once. - Make sure the head bolts are torqued properly - Clean the threads in the bolt holes prior to...

The Volant is a true "cold-air" system. That means that is pulls air from OUTSIDE the engine compartment. The kits from KKM, K&N, MAC, etc... that have an open element under the hood are NOT cold air systems. So you are getting ambient temps over 50 mph - that is great if you never have to...

Guys, these things are a rip. Search the forums and you will find several discussions. The theories they present as to why their mufflers work violate two of the laws of thermodynamics. And, if they are so good, why don't they compare themselves to other mufflers? Note that they only compare...

Another solution to the shudder problem is to get the updated valve from Baumann. I'll actually be installing one over the weekend when I install my shift kit.

The Volant is a true "cold air" system, unlike the KKM, MAC and K&N setups. There is nothing "cold air" with an open element under the hood. To take it to the next level, build a ram-air system to feel the Volant box.

Those "superchargers" are based on nothing more than bilge fans for boats. What a joke. Don't be a sucker.