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My battery was going bad but even with a jump the engine would turn over. I put a new battery in today and it doesn't make a sound. I think I can hear the fuel pump go on. I have 1 key and 2 key FOBs. The key FOBs both work but still can't get it to turn over.

I have a 2004 Explorer with dual climate control. I recently replaced the engine and now the flow controls aren't working. They were working before I replaced the engine. I checked the vacuum on the line in the engine compartment and it has vacuum. Why aren't the controls working?

This whole thing would have been easier if I disconnected the transmission like I did anyway and pulled the engine and transmission forward a few inches then you can get to all the bolts

I need to remove my rear drive shaft. I don't have any 12 point sockets so I need to know the bolt size on the drive shaft so I can get a 12 point socket tomorrow.

I had someone come to help me and his plan was simple. Take the intake manifold off. Once it was off you can see the transmission bolts.

I pulled out the center console and there is an access panel but it's too far back and can't get to the 2 upper bolts. I'm now looking at disconnecting the shift cable to get to the left upper bolt. I don't know about the right upper bolt since I can't see it. There has to be an easier way to...

I'm trying to get the top 2 transmission bolts out. I've seem some people remove the transmission support but there's a bolt to close too the exhaust pipe and another bolt for a heat shield too close to the exhaust pipe. I've see other post saying there is an access panel under the center...

I have the oil pan off and two rods are broken. Most of it is in the oil pan but one rod it jammed on the top of the block preventing the engine from turning.

I looked at it again. Looks like if I drop the sway bar and the front differential I could take the oil pan down and hopefully access the broken rod. Any thoughts?

What about this for a plan... Disconnect the motor mounts then lift the engine as much as I can then take the oil pan off and try to remove the broken rod.

I'm sure it's a broken rod. The engine was knocking really bad before it died. If the take the engine and trans together how do I separate them once out. I guess once out I can roll them over take the oil pan off and take the broken rod out. Any easier way to get this engine out?

I looked at the new engine and there's a hole on the opposite side from the starter. I went under to look and there was a rubber plug. I pulled it out and that's the tc access point. Now I can't turn the engine more than a 1/4 turn. I can only get to 1 tc bolt. How do I get the engine out if I...

I finally got the starter out. It has 3 bolts holding it in. I was able to rotate the engine backwards until a tc bolt was in the starter hole. I don't see any way to get the bolt out. It's too far in the opening. How do I get these out?

I'm replacing my engine. I wanted to know if there is an easy way to get the upper transmission bolts out on a 2004 2.6l AWD Exploder Limited

I'm sure this has been asked before yet here I am... I'm removing my engine and need to know how do I get access to the torque converter bolts? The engine is seized i think it's a rod. I was told to turn the engine backwards but I'm afraid the harmonic balancer bolt my come out. If I can't turn...

These are pictures of the controller vacuum lines. Looks like one is missing, there is an empty port.

I have a 2001 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Having a problem with the A/C. The compressor goes on and off and I can see the pressure change so I assume that part is working. Problem is no air flow to the vents, some warm air to the defrost, rear A/C is warm. I pulled the controller out and took the...

What about this R12a that I see out there. I see it can be used in an R12 or 134a system. If used in an R12 system use 1/2 as required. HC-12a, also called ES-12a, OZ-12a, and Hydrocarbon Blend B, is a "drop-in" replacement refrigerant for Freon-12 and to a lesser extent, R-134a. HC-12a is a...

What about this R12a that I see out there. I see it can be used in an R12 or 134a system. If used in an R12 system use 1/2 as required.

Doesn't the oil go through whole system and up in to the evaporator, so evacuate the system won't get all the old oil out. I know you can buy adapter fitting for the old system to use R134a connections.

What would happen if I used R134a in a stock 1993 Explorer R12 system?

Still can't figure this out. The procedure look easy but access to do it isn't very easy. Will I need to take the power steering pump off? I need to replace the oil pressure sender and it's right in there so I may just do that unless anyone can give me an better way to do this.

Time to adjust my steering box and I have the same problem. The belt and power steering pump are right over the adjusting screw. I see some comments about removing the radiator and fan but that's not really an issue as much as the power steering pump and belt.

I tried to empty the old compressor and nothing came out. I need to replace the accumulator because of a leak in the valve. I was told the valve doesn't leak with the retro-fit on but after I was told that and drove home the system was empty. I called and they blamed the compressor so I have a...