Search results

Thank you!

I'm just stripping excess crap from my 98 Explorer, and came upon this unit. The only place Google lead was this thread :rolleyes: Anyone know the answer?

I'll report back once I find the truck I want to put it in :) Machinists I have plenty of, I'm sure we can make a groove in the side gear, if thats the only issue. That's promising, thanks for the info.

On as related note, is the TTB D35 carrier the same as the IFS one? can I use the True-Trac out of my old TTB35 in a second gen 35? There's not much out there for reading on second gen stuff :(

Exactly, but it is realistically at least a couple years down the road (some serious work to go on the bash-mobile first), and I do change my plans every 15 minutes or so :D Just want to make sure there's no specific reason to avoid any particular model. I've been thinking 98+ just for the...

I've decided to find a 5.0L Explorer as a daily driver while my beast goes under the knife again. Is there a 96-01 that is a better choice than the others? reason? Eventually a turbo stroker should find its home there, but for as long as possible, I just want a nice driver. input? Thanks

Can anyone tell me if the firewall is formed differently in the V8 models for the bigger bell housing? or is the tunnel just really roomy compared to the first gen trucks? maybe :rolleyes: designed for it even?

FWIW I've put a lot of miles on 3 different 4.0L auto/manual swaps, with stock computers. No problems.

What's a sway bar?:D If you're rubbing on the radius arm, you've got deep backspaced wheels, and spacers will put you back to a 'normal' 3.5 to 4" bs, or the opposite, and your scrub radius is gigantic, or your tires are HUGE, or your steering stops need to be adjusted.

Not to mention that the front wheel bearings are unhappy at best when stock. wider wheels/spacers will amplify the problem. You want a Sawzall:p:

4.10 will be really snappy, 4.56 will be almost too low, but definitely gives you room to grow, should you decide to go to 33's in future. If you do a lot of highway, 3.73 or 4.10 and 31's is a good choice. If you drive mostly city, and rarely long highway trips, you could get away with 4.56...

My FM 146 (88 ranger) held up pretty well. had over 300K KM on it to start with, and I put maybe 30K on it behind the 4.0L before it puked, most likely from old age and my destructive effect on mechanical devices :p: I wouldn't say the M5OD is particularly stronger, tho it does have a nicer...

Ford went with the ultra high-dollar 28ga wire LOL! do you have 'non-stock' bulbs? That does it, most times. For Far superior light output, and peace of mind, rewire with 16-14ga wire and relays. and get yourself some 80w/100w bulbs. Not much you can do for the pathetic lens and reflector...

Right. The hubs just connect the wheels to the axle shafts. A LS is an LS. Doesn't matter WHAT you have in the front diff if the hubs are unlocked.

The Deaver leaf springs are great. Take a pounding, and no sag. Ride is good too. They told me I could get 14-16" travel from them, and that the stock shackles would be fine. Well, I got about 13" metal to metal travel with stock shackles. I found soon that the stockers would bind on compression...

True Tracs work awesome for an exploder. I run them front and rear, 4.10's w/33's. gearing is decent, could be better, but great on the highway. The only place you will ever feel the need for anyhthing else is when you start extreme crawling, with LOTS of tire lifting. Guess what? Explorers...

Use your parking brake, and get rid of that POS A4LD :p

How many people break the upper rear shock bar-pin (stock) I snapped one with pathetic worn out jobber shocks, just before prepping to install Bilstein 7100's (MUCH stiffer valving). I was hoping to avoid building a new crossmember etc, but if these things have a chronic disintegration...

Definitely 4.56 if you plan to tow with 33's! 4.10's/33's make a nice highway combo, but 4hi off road is pretty much useless. On the other hand, 4.56 and 31's is going to be pretty steep on the highway. 4.10 with 31's is a nice snappy combo. Pick your poison :)

Close. That pic of the Giant Motorsports setup (>$2500 IIRC) is the next step in bandaids :) A true solution that COMPLETELY eliminates bumpsteer must be in PLANE with the whole 'A-arm' created by the beam and radius arm, rather than just following the beam. Getting the tierod to echo the...

similar issue Since it doesn't look like this is a solved problem, I'll just add mine on, as its the same thing. My 92 auto Exploder had zero 4wd function when I got it. I did a complete drivetrain swap, from different vehicles, except I kept the 1354E for the time being, intending to later...

I've never tried with stock tires, but with everything from 31" AT's to 35" mudders (all on 8" steel wheels) anything over 10psi is 4wd only. Assuming soft dry sand, of course. Typically when I go to the dunes I run 6-8 psi with no problems. getting the pressure down allows 2wd, which allows...

Or just quit wasting your time reading codes :p It runs. Go wheelin'. :cool:

When I did my 88 Ranger a few years ago (93 axles) I left the stock master, worked fine. My Exploder (92) with 96 exploder rear discs and F150 front brakes is awesome. Pedal is a bit high for some, but I really like it. a slightly smaller master would give a little more modulation, but I would...