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For continuity im checking for resistance? High resistance means an open circuit? Im trying to get my hands on starting fluid to see if it kicks because it sure doesnt seem to sputter or anything.. such a shame i shouldve had the diagrams in front of me doing this it all could have been avoided...

Well i got a weekk before the junkyard has time to come grab it so i guess ill keep at it til them maybe ill get my answer. I dont know how the connection to the bulb would be bad though, with all the wires back where they came from the bulb still works but now it wont start at all when before...

Yeah pigtailing the alt wire into the other reconnected didnt change anything, and even putting all the wires back to stock didnt do anything made sure no fuses were blown, it just wont start now, im all done. This is way worse than i thought it was going to be, so this truck is off to the...

Youre right i didnt even notice but no the light doesnt come on at all. Ill hook it up with the new wire pigtailed in and see what it does, im pretty sure it was the right wire though, the other with green and red are more red than green its not too difficult to discern. I may look for the...

I had twelve volts at the connector, when plugged in it dropped. I cut the wire between the pcm harness and trans harness (i believe thats what you were saying to do?) And put a jumper from the firewall harness to the alt connector. I read twelve volts with key on and batt light does not come...

Ill try it when the temps drop a bit thanks. And yes about interchangeable parts thats helped when scouring for parts in the past i was more reffering to wiring locations, for ecample my trans connecter was mounted on the side of the engine not bolted up to the firewall which made it difficult...

Im under the impression that isnt my issue, that or wherever its dropping voltage is stemming from somewhere else ive tried all the suggested coa's with no definitive results taken apart both connectors to trave that wire and it and pins all seem intact. If it was grounding out and is in fact a...

And a little bg on myself, i live literally in the middle of the woods alone, i work with what i have here since without a running a truck i cant get into town to pickup tools or supplies. Upon realizing what a dilemma this is, i realize when i do(if ever) get this truck goin its time to pic up...

Used jumpers between power supply on back on alt to red grn wire got a big spark so i took it off immediately, used jumper between red green on connector on firewall to red grn on alt, engine slows to almost stall and keeps going, batt light stays on. Am i not understanding what i should be...

Batt light is on so i know that works, and when the plug is pulled from alt it goes off of course the truck dies shortly after. The 2v is on the red grn wire, the yellow power wire holds at whatever voltage the battery currently has. With key off or on. Also not shown in the video is that my...

Any thoughts on this video? I dont have a test light so i cant recreate the test but is it possible im somply not getting good enough voltage to my main power wire? Again i want to confirm i should have twelve volts to the excite wire because the motorcraft forums most are saying that putting...

So i do have 12 v when connector is not attached to alt. Drops whwn i plug it in. Not sure what connector the trans harness connector is, top pass side of firewall? Has maybe 30 40 wires in it with a 10mm bolt holding it to fitewall? Or is it closer to distribution box in a square mounted on...

Will do thanks. It always surprises me when any wire is run carelessly enough that it snaps breaks or chafes but ive seen it enough times i shouldnt be. Hell my 68 pontiac hasnt had any wiring done aside from grounds where the floor pan rusted but hey.. chasing wires has gotta be my least...

Wish it was so, thatd be an easy enough fix but no go, cluster dim reading low volts clamped the jumpers to a few different points no change.

Oddly enough i have a dead cluster the green wire is getting about one volt, my fuses and battery are reading around 10 and my alt yellow wire is getting 10. I hate this damned truck..

I will recheck starter connection, i was told the green wire was for the charge indicator lamp as the diagram shows and it should have 2 volts or so if functioning correctly, that could be wrong, but i was also told to check if there was an open ground to run the vehicle and pull the plug from...

Ive rechecked the fuses but it stands that none of them pertaining to the charging system are blown. Its not an issue with the fuses, they have 12v

This truck is driving me out of my mind. Ive got a new alternator new battery, fusible links are good fuses are good, replaced terminals, im getting no charge and my battery light is on. Ive tested EVERYTHING. When i put the new battery in it was running at 14 or so volts, checked at alt yellow...

Manual controls. I had wired a switch from battery to compressor and now im having power issues while its running so i guess thats out.. im starting to loathe this truck..

So i got up early where i had left off and tackled most of the testing you guys mentioned here, i ealized that orange plastic fitting was the low pressure switch and i had no power there, i already had checked relays and fuses, always first step sorry i hadnt mentioned i forget common sense isnt...

So im trying to get my ac going. From the start of troubleshooting i manually spun the compressor to make sure it wasnt locked up, learned the system has a low pressure auto cutoff, added uv die and stop leak and recharged the system to where i believe it should run on its own, at that point i...