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Hi, I have a 2001 Ford Ranger 3.0L 4x4 and there is a slight grinding noise when driving. I jacked up the front end to take a look for what might be causing it and couldn't find anything. I did notice however that the front drive shaft would spin when I spun the tires. Does this mean the hubs...

Interesting. I just got my leak down tester so hopefully this weekend I can open it back up and take a good look at what's going on. Thanks for the idea.

A friend gave me their truck after it's been sitting for a year. I did some inspection on it and it looked ok. It started right up so I shut it down immediately. Then I started inspecting the fluids and found the coolant had leaked into the oil and had been completely emulsified into a nice...

I've read that and other stuff on the internet and that's pretty much what I've been doing however it doesn't work well. It's above 50F so it seems driving isn't really required. I'm looking for a bit more insight into how to measure it when the oil dipstick tube seems to always effect the...

I've found filling the 5R55E which has a long dipstick tube (Mazda) to be really difficult. This is how I do it: Let it sit overnight Check the cold level for reference and to make sure it's not in the cross hatched area on the dip stick Run engine in idle until at temperature Recheck level...

Here's an update. I was able to get a 5r44e and swap it out for the 5r55e. I used the same pump assembly from the transmission that was giving me trouble (5r55e) and this 5r44e is working great. I know the planetary gear is different, but in general it's working and shifting fine. So the...

Well I thought it might have been the DTR because on one setting it appeared the CLOSED condition was actually open. Replacing the DTR and adjusting it didn't work though. I guess at this point I have to decide to double down and take it to a shop or swap out the full transmission. I can't...

Thanks. It's literately driving me crazy. It's an interesting suggestion. No, I didn't do anything with that. In fact I had assumed it was mostly a simple manual sensor for neutral that would be reliable. I read up on it and I'll take a closer look. That would be way too easy though.

So I pulled the transmission and tore it down again. The sprag seemed to be failing to lock. The OD band was a bit burnt and the OD drum was scarred. I did the following: Replaced the OD drum and OD band I had a used planetary that came with the OD drum but the sprag race was less worn on...

I don't have any more ideas where to go from here and I need to get this vehicle fixed. The pressure is as shown in the video above and I'm not sure why it bounces so much. Without any further suggestions here's my plan; Remove transmission & inspect Replace torque converter Replace sprag...

It's been a while and I replaced a lot of stuff. I'm pretty sure I replaced the sprag and I was careful with the direction, but it's not impossible I did something wrong there. Is this your concern (14min into this tear down):

It definitely moves around a lot. I took a video of going from start and walking through the gears (you can see the shift indication in the background and hear it). Every time I check the fluid level I get different results. I'll let it sit overnight, check it, start it and walk it though the...

I'll try retesting and see if I can get it more stable. I watched a youtube video and saw how the gauge worked for them. Any thoughts on why without the electrical plug I get: N -> D No engagement but 1 -> D and 2 -> D it engages? Is it worthwhile to monitor the pressure during this test too?

Thanks again for all your help on this. I didn't do reverse WOT but here's what I'm seeing. I don't really know what I'm looking for as the gauge sometimes jumps around. After repeating the test a couple times it stopped jumping as much (gauge equalizing? I don't know but I found afterwards...

(I'm not getting any trouble codes on the transmission) It took forever to get the test gauge shipped here. But I was able to test them today. Idle - 79 psi Drive - sits at about 80, then jumps to about 145 psi but no higher, then there is eventually the feeling of it engaging. Reverse - sits...

I've ordered a rebuilt TC. Since shipping takes so long I have to try and anticipate other issues. Should I consider getting another full rebuild kit or pump? There was a lot of fine friction dust and some metal dust, but it was all very fine. Any insight from experience would be appreciated.

Unfortunately there is nowhere to get loaner tools other than Oreilly and they don't carry it. Is there a fitting for the EPC I should look for too? Something interesting I noticed that seems to be very consistent is that if I switch from N to D it takes several seconds to engage and engages...

Thanks for all those details Brad. I was extremely careful. I pressure flushed all the lines (in fact I installed 4 new lines as the old ones were corroding) and cooler about 3 times and I installed an additional magnetic filter in line on the return going to the transmission. I looked at...

Originally the transmission was burnt out and heavily abused. I replaced many hard parts, sensors, gears, center support, bands, plates, etc. along with all of the soft parts. I couldn't find anyone to service the torque converter so I flushed it multiple times but I didn't replace it. I do...

So I've put about 15k miles on this transmission that I rebuilt. It worked pretty well most of the time. I do have to back off the accelerator in the 2-3 transition for it to shift. I took it to a mechanic who test drove it and thought the problem was related to the valve body. I didn't...

Is there any more detail I could provide that might help generate some suggestions?

I recently rebuilt a 5r55e that was pretty burnt out. I change a few of the hard parts and all of the soft parts. It has a hard shift between 1 & 2 and that usually generates an O/D OFF blinking. If I back off the accelerator it shifts nicely, otherwise it struggles to shift 1-2. The other...

How do you "scan it" then if a code reader won't work? It does clear the code, but it shows no codes present. It seems to happen when switching from 1 to 2.

That's a much nicer VB diagram than in the rebuild manuals. I've never owned a Ford Ranger and I bought this one (Mazda b4000) with the burnt out transmission, so I don't know what is normal for its performance. I don't have a check engine light on, but when I ran my scanner I get P0141 which...

Ok, good news, bad news. The manual valve was definitely the issue. Now it behaves properly. However I noticed 2 problems on a very short test drive. 1. Upon hard acceleration, I have to back off the gas a bit to get it to shift. Shifting is smooth however. 2. The O/D Off light is...