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I am in need of a bumper cover for my 2004 Sport Trac. Not super picky on style or fogs/no fogs, just something better than what I have which has been completely bondo'd. Located in Nashville, TN.

For anyone facing this issue: I solved it with the correct tool, a drum brake caliper measuring tool. Setting it by feel/sound just wasn’t working. Now that I have it adjusted properly it works great! Good $40 spend.

My 2004 ST won't hold on a hill unless the pedal is MASHED against the floor. I have adjusted the star adjusters to where the shoes are just starting to drag, then backed off one. However, it still won't hold unless it is on the last click of the foot pedal. Are there any other adjustment...

Yep - cheap and easy fix. They were cheap aftermarkets so I don't intend them to last long but that's my MO on this truck... drive it until it breaks and use cheap parts lol.

Well I just had a look around under the truck and it looks like it MIGHT be the fact that one of the sway bar bushing is just gone. Only half of it is there. So I'll try replacing that and see how it goes!

So I haven't been able to track this down. 2004 Explorer SportTrac. When there is a suspension shift and weight is taken OFF the passenger side front wheel (for instance when turning right), I get a loud CLUNK. It sounds like some kind of tension is being released. It resets. So if I go straight...

OK. So I need some further advice on this. I refilled the engine with coolant after replacing all hoses, purged it for about 30 minutes (I have a burping funnel) and it seems to be running fine. Not down on power, doesn't seem to be burning coolant, no overheating issues. However, I'm getting...

Thanks all. That's my plan. I just put coolant in it today and I'm going to drive it gently for a few days and see if the coolant level remains good (not burning due to a cracked HG), then I'll drain the radiator and replace the hoses and fill'r back up! Just wanted to put minimal investment...

I lost coolant again today - the 90º hose above the reservoir burst. This is now the second time I've lost coolant explosively. Today I did a hard pull to pass someone. Last time I was doing a hard pull up an on-ramp and the lower radiator hose blew off the radiator (spring clips). Coolant is...

Thanks!

Yeah its a cable actuated one. I'll look at the condition of it. If condition is good if anyone has any lube tips I'd appreciate it.

The accelerator pedal on my truck is difficult to press and feels "gritty" in motion if that makes sense. I was curious if there's a way to lube the throttle cable or if it has to be replaced?

To answer everyone - the units are interchangeable front-rear and side-to-side (any one will work in any location). You may have to snap the mounting clip off the motor and reverse it, but that's pretty trivial with some c-clip spreaders. The different part numbers are likely just for mounting...

I did, thats my go to. They only list front units. I just ordered a full set on amazon. We’ll see how it looks whenI get them. Im guessing they are the same.

Ford OEM parts specify Left or Right, but not Front or Rear. Aftermarket parts stipulate Front Left or Front Right. Anyone know how to get actuators for the rear? Are the front and rear units the same?

OK #1 is resolved. Took the barrel connector apart (pulled door off as well) and one of the lines was just so brittle it was broken (likely fully broke while I was handling the harness). Patched and next up is dealing with the lock motor whir.

My power door locks in my truck seem to have 2 separate issues and I'd like to sort both out. 1. The lock/unlock only intermittently works. 99% this is the barrel connector in the door. I'm going to try and remove the door and inspect the wiring in there - is that the right approach? 2. Many...

I guess the "suitable container" is the part I'm trying to figure out - this was what I was going to do I just don't know what to put the freon into. I do want to play by the rules and not vent to atmosphere because the earth is important and all that.

So I'm trying to get my AC charged back up - clearly it had a slow leak as it was cooling but very poorly and the readings were very low. I'm following the OEM manual based on ambient temperature. I was watching the high side and at idle it never broke 215psi at idle (it was 73 out, which per...

Did any iteration of the 1st gen ST come with an AC condenser fan? I noticed that my truck doesn't cool well when in stop and go traffic and so I was thinking of adding one on a switch just to get some airflow over the condenser in these situations - when I start rolling 30+ MPH it cools just...

So my 2004 that I recently purchased had a rebuilt title. It is clear from the front end that it was in a collision. My friend I bought it from had it for about 10 years so it was while the vehicle was pretty new. He obviously knew it had a rebuilt title when he bought it but had it checked over...

Just an update on this - the heavy coolant leak stopped. I think it was trapped coolant from when I flushed the heater core just sitting on a framerail or something. Now what I do have is a very slow drip from the front of the motor... coolant. Definitely coming from the tstat housing - top of...

I checked it when I took the tstat out and found no signs of leakage. I didn't see any today when I checked but I can't see too far back. I'll see if I can find a mirror. There is no leakage around the tstat housing. I re-used the existing o-ring as it was very pliable and seemed in good shape...

OK update. Trans fluid was drained and did NOT look like it was contaminated, just old. I didn't see any water bubbles or mush in it, so that's great. I've done the following: 1. Dropped pan, replaced filter, refilled, flushed out lines with pump, ran truck for a bit and checked level. 2...

Oh I'm an idiot. I didn't realize it actually screwed into the pump. I thought it was held on by the 4 bolts like on the other cars I've worked on. DOH.