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haha, that doesn't sound too bad at all for 10 years of ownership. In the 3 years I have had mine (2.5 years of driving it, plus the last 6 months I have been trying to sell it so its been sitting, because I am afraid if I drive it something else will break) I have rebuilt the transmission...

I would definitely recommend to anyone who asks to NOT buy an explorer. But, for those determined to punish themselves, DO NOT buy a 4.0 explorer.....

im at 138k on my 2010 4.0 with no timing chain rattle... I course the reason im selling it is becuase I have had everything EXCEPT the timing chain rattle so far, so I know thats next.....

Just put it on youtube then you can put the link here

is this something that was working then stopped suddenly, or was it like that when you bought it?

I would actually suspect the shifter assembly or linkage. I know If I shift mine down out of drive into 3rd, the same thing happens to mine, which has also been rebuilt (dunno if thats relevant, but thought I would mention it) Maybe your shifter is just out of adjustment enough to allow it to...

my explorer had a bearing roar when I bought it, but I couldnt determine which was bad, so waiting till I saw abnormal tire wear. Replaced driver front, and the noise was cut in half. 5k miles later I replaced the passenger front and the noise was almost completly gone.... A few thousand miles...

Yea I went through the same thing. Even watched probably the same video, it was a no-go.Day 3 I gave up. Belive me, you aren't going to get it out with hand tools (im not saying its not possible to do with hand tools, if its going to come out without a press, it will come out fairly quickly, Im...

the explorer doesn't have torsion bars, so you can do a torsion lift.... Cheapest easiest lift you can do is spacers, but no matter what you do you dont get any extra travel. any lift you get comes at the expense of droop. travel stays the same, you are just higher up in it....

They shouldn't have had to reprogram anything just putting on new tires, unless they broke something and had to put a new sensor on. If it happend just after you got new tires, I would say discount tire messed something up. Did the mechanic check all four tire sensors and they are all working?

yep same thing here. my explorer had a bearing growl in the front when I bought it, "no worries, its a 20 min job", I thought. Ha, joke was on me on that one.... anyway I checked and rechecked but my front tires never did the bad bearing wiggle..... I had read about people going nuts replacing...

I've found repairpal to be wildly inaccurate, normally on the low side. It told me around $300 to replace my rear differential.... labor would be way more than that.... I dont know where they get their estimates, but I wish that mechanic was near me, I would certainly do less of my own work....

based on everything I have read, it puts a lot of stress on the upper ball joints, and you will be replacing them every 1-2 years. If you can handle that, go for it.

This is the tool you want. I used to to remove all 3 joints on my front knuckle when I did my second front hub and axle. 3/4 in. Ball Joint Separator

The sway bar doesn't do anything to hold up the truck when its in your driveway. Bad swaybar links would put less stress on the swaybar, so no they couldn't have damaged it. Any impact that would actually bend the swaybar would absolutely destroy the rest of the suspension. Have you checked the...

O/D off, speed control, 4x4, etc aren't warning lights, as specified in the thread title....

or just turn on the car. All lights should illuminate for a few seconds. If it doesn't light up, the bulb for that light is burnt out. Check you manual for what lights should be there... Thats the entire reason they all light up when you first start the car, so that you can tell they are working....

The timkin ones I linked earlier in the thread ( Timken HA590156) are marked "made in usa". they are $155 on amazon As for preload, well, I dont have a 200ft/lb torque wrench, I i just took it to the 150 ft/lbs my wrench goes to, and then gave it an extra 1/8th turn.... No issues yet with close...

Any 12v inverter can be hardwired to your battery, even those made to plug into the 12v socket, but you definitely still want to use a fuse if its hardwired. You dont actualy get "12 volts" at your accesory socket.... Your 12v sockets put out the full battery voltage, so there will be no...

Well good luck with your install. The link I posted in my first post has all the info you need.

I mean, needing work? Yea, I get that. Things go wrong on used vehicles. Thing is, I've had significantly older vehicles with way more miles that needed way less work. I just want to be able to go more than 3 months without something going wrong. It was only 7 years old at 90K miles when I...

I may be bias because I just changed mine, but I suspect your rear differential.... grab your driveshaft near the rear diff and see if you can move it up/down side/side.

Quick update. Literally the day before I was going to start installing my body lift, my dog died. So we drove he downtown to the pet crematorium. As we were nearly there, We started to hear a scraping sound and a large drag on the engine, which came and went. We took care of business and...

yea, I would say the negative terminal being loose is way more likely to be the problem than the key. When I bought mine it had a normal key and separate fob as well. I bought the fobkeys off ebay and had them programmed.

There is a difference between the 3rd and 4th gen center sections. 3rd gen are held in with 3 bolts, two in the rear and one in the front, while the 4th gen has 2 in the rear and two in the front. With that said, I still think a 3rd gen would work even if the kit is designed for 4th gen. I...