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I would start by investigating the TCC (torque converter clutch). Sounds like it may be stuck in the "applied" position.

WOW, 1k for 60k miles, good deal! Check your door tag and see what equipment it came with, post a pic if you like. I seen alot of the OHV 4wd with the 4.10 LSD disk brakes already from the factory, code: D2 on the door tag, thats what mine has.

Make sure ALL bolts and wiring are disconnected, and apply force to move console rearward. The are two metal tabs at the rear of the console that lock it into a bracket on the floor, it can take some force to get it out, be careful where you grab and apply the pressure, dont forget to make...

If your transmission is in "N", and also the t-case is in "N", the output shaft of the trans. may still spin (nothing to hold it), this is normal. "P" does absolutely nothing if the t-case is in "N", the parking pawl will bounce off the notches in the parking pawl and make noise if the engine...

Sounds like the throwout bearing dragging against the clutch diaphram fingers.

In the top picture, engine looks to be the 4.0 OHV v6 engine, therefore you just change the thermostat itself. In the lower picture in hand, that looks like the "thermostat housing" for the 4.0 SOHC v6, they are not interchangeable.

lovato dgm45 It looks like some sort of aftermarket device, possibly an electric coolant/block heater, It looks like there are coolant hoses going into, and out of the device.

When I was painting cars (15 years ago) I mixed my paint with the reducer first and set it aside, then I chose how much of the reduced paint I was going to spray at that time, then add the hardener (last) because once you add the hardener, it cannot sit around, you HAVE to spray it, or it...

That is the thermostat housing, two bolts hold on, it is simple to remove and replace. Has the pipe rusted from the inside out?

Where are all the used 1st gens? Go outside and look at your patio, see the metal chairs and table?

Anything thing is possible with enough money, time, knowledge and effort. If you're looking for a direct swap of engines, I would say definitely NO!

I love the smell of new tires in the morning!

Try checking the vacuum operated heater control servo. If the servo does not open when you turn the "temperature" knob on the climate controls to "HOT", hot water will not flow through the heater core, and you will then not have hot air coming out the vents in the cab.

It would help to know what the oxygen sensor data is.

Both wiper run and wiper hi/lo relay are powered by fuse 16, 30A, in the IP fuse panel, and is only HOT in ACC or RUN position of ign. switch. If the key is not "ON" no power will be at the number 16, 30A fuse.

Must be a special I.C. for the country your vehicle was destined for use in.

Detonation/ping/spark knock

Check that the vacuum operated heater control valve is opening properly, hooked up properly, and not leaking.

The ONLY way to test if the 4x4/control trac is working is to put the vehicle on a lift with all four tires off the ground, put it in gear, let off the brake and have someone watch front and back tires for motion. My 97' OHV will not spin the tires on grass, or gravel road, in 4auto, 4H, or 4L...

That pipe is not a vacuum connection, I think it's the vent tube for the transmission, just leave it alone.

If the rear is "howling", it means either the bearings are worn, or the R&P is worn, either scenario is a full rebuild, but it's cheaper and easier to just find a good used entire differential to replace it with.

Going out of gear around corners is an indication of being low on ATF.

If you have exhaust smell, you might have an exhaust leak. If you have an exhaust leak ahead of the O2 sensors, you will have unmetered oxygen being read by the O2 sensors, which would definitely throw a code. Do you hear any exhaust "ticks" or "pfts" while accelerating? Put a scanner on it...

OOPS!! see those cut/broken wires hanging down? Looks like someone cut it out! According to the wiring diagram, the TRUN/HAZZARD/FLASHER wire colors are: ORG/YEL, RED/WHT, WHT/RED, LT/BLU & BLK

For your temp. problem, chances are the thermostat is stuck open. Mine did this, and with the "towing package" radiator, even in the summer time with a stuck open thermostat, it would not get up to operating temp, LOL! For your speed, I would put a code reader on it and watch the "live data"...