Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
I think its the alternator model with the internal regulator, which has a heatsink I think? In either case I tested the regulator again today by giving it some gas and it actually seems to work fine, doesn't climb above 14.6 or so. So I'm supposing its just the battery now. It might be worth...
Interesting, because I measured it once I ran it for a while and it wasn't terribly different, 14 or in that area. I'll measure it again today but the fact is that I've not gotten a warning about voltage on the dash and it still runs normally. I guess now I'm wondering whether a battery can just...
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer Limited I'm working on and I'm trying to figure out whether I need to get a new battery, a new alternator, or just a new voltage regulator. The battery before starting reads a decent 12 volts, but reads 14.6 or so once running, which seems a bit to high. Occasionally...
I'm trying to diagnose this same exact issue at the moment and I'm suspecting its the fuel pump check valve (engine runs perfectly but starts ROUGH without multiple keyings, and I can't locate any leaks). Do you mind sharing how you could diagnose is as the damper? I'm honestly not too familiar...