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I replaced my first set of plugs with NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs (ZNAR6AIX-11/372) & have 50k on them.

Well, next time your advice will be the last I ignore :) Hehe before you write the book I spent 4 years repairing Detroit Diesels in the Army (88L), 4 years working at a Sears Auto while in college (alignments, brakes, exhaust, VA state inspector) & 4 years managing NTW & Merchants stores...

Have a 2010 with V8. I’ve got ~100k on the odometer & to be honest it’s been one of my favorite cars to own. It has issues (low gas mileage, needs tires & front wheel bearings every 30 to 50k). Question: Is the Explorer 4.6 in the same family as problematic Triton motor? Just thinking long...

Ya as always not a clean story. The car was 100+ miles away at my old mum’s house (I live in the city where garages are hard to come by). So, I didn’t have the car handy (worked on it during visits & holidays) & you know, well, with all my knowledge & Snap On tools it just couldn’t be...

Okay okay I’m an idiot. I’ve pretty much replaced my entire brake system (using all new Ford parts) only to find... I did install my calipers upside down (bleeders at the bottom versus on top, where all the nice air was trapped). We’ll shout out to the tow company & fine folks at the Ford...

Well $825 (Sneed Ford online) for ABS Control Unit. Fingers crossed that’s it... & if not who needs brakes their overrated :-)

So it’s the tires, & with low defect rates, something in your suspension “likely” created wear that gave you the bad ride.

Yes I believe there are rear camber & toe settings available. Follow the real control arm/lateral supports from the rear spindle back to the center line of the body (near gas tank) & you’ll see offset cams that increase or decrease the distance to the spindle.

Crap that’s big money. But why fail after fluid is lost (replacing brake stuff downstream) &/or later when pressure is applied again (trying to work this all out in my brain)? It of course feels like I’m trying to compress an air bubble when I hit the brake pedal.

Calipers, left & right are on the correct spindles (nothing upside down)

New rotors.

Yep. That part was cool, because the IDS test actually simulated ABS event & I was able to break the bleader loose during 3 separate cycles, & fluid pressure (the squirt) was all done by the motorized ABS unit. **Oh & the brakes worked perfect prior to this (all preventative maintenance...

Going through college in the early ‘90s I worked as junior mechanic & have done 100s of brake jobs... & never have I been this challenged. On my 2010 I swapped all 4 calipers & flex brake lines that connect the calipers, & after extensive brake bleading I’ve got low pedal pressure. So, I...

For sure you’ve got to rule out something loose... which wears tires & from there gives you the bad ride. 1) I’ve got 2x 2010s & buy tires ~30k miles & have found some brands (like Goodyear) either don’t age well... or ride hard as hell :-). I only buy Michelin LTXs at this point. 2) I worked...

Hello. I have 2x 2010 Eddie Bauer Explorers (v6 & v8)... & my goal is to make them last least 2-3 more years. I feel I have lots of lessons learned (& to share) & lots more lessons still to learn :-) So far I’ve: - upgraded all rotors to EBC 3GD (dimple rotors) -> thinking of using Bosch...